There’s more to Scotland ’s long and storied history than Braveheart. Indeed, Scotland’s favorite movie epic was 5% real events and 95% national pride. But finding the real history of Scotland is easy in this land of lochs and legends.
It’s worth making a distinction between places that were real-life locations for history, and places where history still feels alive. While millions of visitors make a beeline for Edinburgh Castle, a more vivid evocation of Scotland’s past can be found at dozens of less busy historical sites across the country.

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From Orkney and Shetland to the rain-lashed glens of the central Highlands, here’s our pick of the best places to commune with Scottish history – and feel a little of that history seep back into the modern-day. You might even walk in the footsteps of your own Scottish ancestors.

Jarlshof in Shetland is like a cutaway view of more than four millennia of Scottish history © Getty Images / imageBROKER RF

See a snapshot of 4000 years of history at Jarlshof
Ancient villages pop up all over the Scottish Islands, but Jarlshof in Shetland is something special. Neolithic people lived here. Bronze Age people lived here. Iron Age people lived here. Pictish people lived here. Hell, even Vikings lived here. This sprawl of turf-topped Iron-Age wheelhouses, longhouse ruins and medieval walls near Sumburgh airport is like a cutaway view of more than four millennia of Scottish history.
The lonely setting, tucked onto a grassy spit beyond Shetland’s main airstrip, only adds to the magic of a site that includes ancient dwellings, a ruined broch (drystone tower), the walls of Viking longhouses and the fortified 16th-century home of Robert Stewart, the first Earl of Orkney. Flights into Sumburgh are infrequent, so there’s little apart from birdsong and sea spray to disturb the sense of swirling history.

To understand the tough lives crofters were plucked from during the Highland Clearances, stay in one a crofter's college in Cairngorms National Park © Ivan / Getty Images

Get closer to the Clearances in Bettyhill and the Eastern Highlands
People of Scottish descent from Arizona to New Zealand can trace the moment their families were wrenched from the bosom of Scotland to the Highland Clearances, which saw more than 70,000 highlanders and islanders forcibly relocated from their homes between 1750 and 1860. After more than a century of cultural cleansing by such villains of history as Patrick Sellar and James Loch, the Crofters’ Holdings Act of 1886 finally put an end to this shameful campaign of depopulation, but the scars of this time cast a long shadow.
Getting closer to the struggle of those affected by the Clearances means hearing the stories of those affected, and those stories are powerfully told at the Strathnaver Museum in Bettyhill. Housed in a lonely, grave-circled chapel, the museum uses historical relics and pictures created by local schoolchildren to deliver personal experiences of the Clearances.
To understand the tough lives that crofters were plucked from, you’ll need to stay in a crofter’s cottage – ideally, an unrestored one. Allt Scheicheachan in Cairngorms National Park fits the bill perfectly; there’s an open fireplace and space for a sleeping bag but not much else, and you’ll have to hike in your own firewood across the glens. Or, for the brave, there’s remote Ben Alder Cottage, set in desolate country on the shores of Loch Ericht and reputedly haunted by the ghosts of its former occupants.
Feel the shifting sands of time at Skara Brae
Of all the ancient villages uncovered in Scotland, Skara Brae probably has the most evocative discovery story. This Neolithic village was buried by sand after its inhabitants left suddenly in around 2500 BCE, leaving behind some of their most treasured belongings. The village lay hidden beneath the sands until 1850, when an Atlantic storm peeled back its lid of machair to reveal an immaculate collection of stone-walled homes, complete with indoor latrines, beds, cooking hearths and household possessions.
Within sight of the looming mass of Skaill House, Skara Brae spills out of the grass onto a windswept beach on Mainland, the largest island in the Orkney group. The voices of its vanished inhabitants seem to echo in the swish of the sea and the mournful call of gulls. You can contemplate the life of these urbane early Scots on the clifftop walk to the nearby Broch of Borwick, a time-tumbled Iron Age tower perched like a lookout above the Atlantic breakers.
Prime yourself for the trip by reading Kathleen Fidler’s The Boy with the Bronze Axe, a hypothetical story of the abandonment of Skara Brae.
Meet Sir Walter Scott in Melrose
It has to be acknowledged that many figures from Scottish history became even more heroic thanks to the creative embellishments of Sir Walter Scott, novelist, poet, playwright and historian. The great narrator of Scotland’s national story penned many of his masterworks at Abbotsford, a castle-like country estate on the banks of the River Tweed outside Melrose.
In fact, the author was almost ruined by his elaborate and lavish home. When his publishers went bust in 1825, Scott was forced to put up Abbotsford as collateral for his creditors, spending his twilight years writing his way out of debt. Nearby are the sandstone ruins of Melrose Abbey, reputedly the final resting place of the heart of Robert the Bruce.
For more Scott nostalgia, head to Smailholm Tower, a lonely tower-house on the estate where Scott was sent to convalesce from polio as a child, staying with his storytelling grandmother. You can get even closer to Scott at his mausoleum in romantically ruined Dryburgh Abbey, close to the gorgeous lookout known as Scott’s View, where the writer who forged the Scottish narrative came to gaze out over the Tweed.

Introducing Scotland

Walk with Neolithic ghosts in the tombs of Orkney
You can hardly walk a hundred yards in Orkney without stumbling across another ancient tomb. But some tombs come with more mysteries than others. You’ll enter the Tomb of the Eagles at Isbister on South Ronaldsay on your back, lying prone on a wheeled trolley like an auto-mechanic tomb raider. The bones of some 340 people were found buried in this Neolithic-era chambered tomb, alongside the remains of 14 white-tailed eagles.
Back on Mainland, spectacular Maeshowe is noteworthy not only for its place in Stone Age history, but for the tomb raiders who came after. Assembled from sandstone blocks nearly 5000 years ago, this ancient burial site was raided by treasure-seeking Vikings in the 12th century in a scene worthy of Conan the Barbarian.
These interlopers left their mark in the form of rune graffiti – including a timeless boast about an X-rated liaison between Thorni and Helgi – alongside engravings of dragons and knotted serpents. Around the winter solstice, the setting sun shafts into the main chamber in spooky alignment, adding an extra sparkle of magic.
Paint a picture of the Picts in Angus
The woad-wearing Picts are the Scots everyone loves to imagine – fearless and bravehearted and steeped in Celtic mythology. These were the people who drove back the Romans and forged Scotland’s indomitable reputation. The county of Angus on the coast near Dundee is one of the best places to dip into Pictish history, with a string of ancient symbol-carved stones recalling the Picts’ conversion from paganism to Christianity.
Essential stops on the Pictish Trail include St Vigeans Museum near Arbroath, with a collection of intricately carved Celtic crosses and symbol stones, and the village of Forfar, with another fine carved stone collection at the Meffan Museum. While you’re here, stroll across the fields to view St Orland’s Stone, a Pictish cross-slab still standing in its original location, surrounded by empty countryside.
Commune with Iron Age people at Mousa Broch
Of all the ancient styles of building found in Scotland, the broch is perhaps the most impressive. These towering, pot-shaped towers were stacked up from dry stones by the Iron Age inhabitants of the highlands and islands. Some stand almost intact today, after more than two millennia of battering from the Scottish weather – a testament to the ingenuity of the people who built them.
The 2000-year-old broch at Mousa in Shetland is just a few stones away from being show-home perfect. Groups of Iron Age families once lived side-by-side in the chimney-like interior, and inside the hollow walls are winding passageways granting access to the upper levels. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric site that was mentioned in two Norse sagas. The setting – on an uninhabited island that doubles as a reserve for storm petrels and other seabirds – only adds to the fairytale.

Rosslyn Chapel features a spectacular collection of carved masonry and occult symbology © Shutterstock / Ivica Drusany

Explore medieval conspiracies theories at Rosslyn Chapel
There’s space on the list for one stop on the coach-tour circuit. Rosslyn Chapel in Midlothian, propelled to global fame by Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code, features such a spectacular collection of carved masonry and occult symbology that you won’t mind sharing it with a crowd.
Erected in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, this stone chapel is embellished with everything from vines and angels to depictions of the pagan Green Man, symbols of Freemasonry and the Knights Templar, and carvings of American plants – created centuries before the discovery of America.
Rival legends claim that the vaults beneath the chapel – sealed in 1690 and never reopened – contain the Holy Grail, the head of John the Baptist, or the actual body of Christ. On the other hand, they might just contain some skeletal Scottish monks, but it’s nice to imagine… From Rosslyn Chapel, you can stroll through the woods to Rosslyn Castle, the partly ruined seat of the St Clair clan.

The best places to dive into Scottish history (and meet the ancestors)

Scotland’s turbulent history of battles in the glens has bequeathed the country a magnificent selection of castles, with the added bonus of its rugged landscape.
Whether you roam the fortresses overlooking Edinburgh and Stirling or seek out a romantic ruin amid the vast lochs and brooding mountains of the Scottish Highlands, inspiring historical adventures await.

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Perched atop the volcanic plug of Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle is the Scottish capital’s crowning glory © iStock / Getty Images

Explore royal history at Edinburgh Castle
Perched atop the volcanic plug of Castle Rock, the Scottish capital’s crowning glory is a strong start to a tour of the best castles in Scotland. The history of Britain’s most besieged place goes back a thousand years, and the castle’s Georgian barracks proudly overlook the Princes Street Gardens that separate Edinburgh’s Old and New Towns.
Highlights include the firing of the One o’Clock Gun, a tradition dating to 1861, as well as James IV’s wooden-beamed Great Hall and the 16th-century Royal Palace. In the latter, don’t miss the chamber where Mary, Queen of Scots, gave birth to James VI, the first monarch of both Scotland and England.

Eilean Donan has a splendid location on a rocky islet at the meeting of three mountain-rimmed lochs © iStock / Getty Images

Admire the lyrical setting of Eilean Donan Castle
Eilean Donan often serves as a pin-up for the storybook romance of the Highlands, with its splendid location on a rocky islet at the meeting of three mountain-rimmed lochs. You’ll see its reconstructed medieval towers and turrets from the main road west to Skye, but it’s worth crossing the stone bridge to one of the finest castles in Scotland.
Featured in films such as the James Bond flick The World Is Not Enough, it stood strong from the 13th century until 1719, when English men-of-war bombarded its 5m-thick (16ft) walls while besieging Spanish troops during the Jacobite uprisings. Inside, you can imagine yourself a Jacobite plotter on the battlements, peek through spy holes, hold a cannonball and wield a claymore – the hefty sword brandished by William Wallace in Braveheart.
Embark on a family-friendly historical adventure at Stirling Castle
The Jacobite uprisings sought to restore the House of Stuart to the British throne, and you can follow those monarchs to their imposing fortress atop riverside Castle Hill. “He who holds Stirling, holds Scotland,” goes the old saying – and the castle has witnessed some 20 sieges and battles.
The 18th-century pockmarks left by Bonnie Prince Charlie’s cannons are a small part of the building’s rich history, which you can discover on guided tours of James V’s Renaissance-style Royal Palace, the walled Queen Anne Gardens, the stone-floored Great Kitchens and more. Galleries display artifacts including the Stirling Heads, 16th-century oak medallions carved with royal portraits, and children love hearing historical yarns from staff in frilly period costumes.

A windblown relic atop the cliffs of a headland on the North Sea coast, Dunnottar Castle is unbeatable for sheer drama © iweta0077/Getty Images

Dunnottar Castle is one for drama queens (and kings)
This windblown relic atop the 49m-high (160ft) cliffs of a headland on the North Sea coast is unbeatable for sheer drama. A visitor center is planned, but for now, the medieval fortification is a place to absorb the romance of its scenic setting and long history, perhaps while approaching along the Aberdeenshire Coastal Path from nearby Stonehaven.
William Wallace, Mary, Queen of Scots, and Charles II all passed through, but Dunnotar’s proudest moment was helping a small garrison safeguard the Scottish crown jewels (now on display at Edinburgh Castle) from Oliver Cromwell’s forces.

The stately rooms and corridors of Dunrobin castle bring Downton Abbey to mind © Shutterstock / Gimas

Explore the fairy-tale chateau of Dunrobin Castle
Like a wing of the Palace of Versailles transported to the Northern Highlands, the conical spires of this 189-room chateau overlook its formal gardens and the Moray Firth. The traditional seat of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland, its stately rooms and corridors bring Downton Abbey to mind, with their stag heads, gilt-framed portraits and family-crest-emblazoned fireplace.
There’s a tearoom, a museum, falconry displays and gardens laid out by Sir Charles Barry, architect of London’s Houses of Parliament. Open between April and October, the former naval hospital and boys’ boarding school has seven centuries of history, making it one of the UK’s longest continuously inhabited houses.
Channel the Bard at Cawdor Castle
One for actors who superstitiously refer to Macbeth as “the Scottish play,” this looming pile features in Shakespeare’s tragedy, when the protagonist fulfills the witches’ prophecy that he will become Thane of Cawdor.
The play’s 11th-century events predate the castle by a few centuries, but the fairy-tale rooms and gardens nonetheless offer many Scottish legends. Explore the walled garden and visit the medieval tower built around a lucky holly tree, which protected Cawdor through the Jacobite uprisings.
Shakespearean completists should check out another glorious Highlands edifice, Glamis Castle, the setting for much of Macbeth (and the late Queen Mother’s childhood home).
Tour Blair Castle, the last word in Scots Baronial architecture
You can tour 30 rooms of this whitewashed Scots Baronial masterpiece in the southern foothills of the Cairngorms, where the Atholl family left medieval, Georgian and Victorian imprints. Step into the wood-paneled entrance hall, adorned with muskets used at the Battle of Culloden, and wander the hushed rooms of furniture, china and lace, collected by 19 generations of adventurers, Jacobites and royalists.
Stay in a cottage or shepherd’s hut to appreciate the landscaped grounds, where peacocks and red squirrels inhabit the 3.6 hectare (9 acre) walled garden, woodland grove, deer park and sculpture trail. The estate is home to both sustainability schemes and Europe’s last remaining private army, the Atholl Highlanders, which guarded Queen Victoria during her stay at the castle.
For a Cairngorms castle crawl, gallop northeast to 17th-century Braemar Castle (reopening after renovations in July 2023) and the royal-owned Balmoral Castle, where the ballroom and gardens open to the public between April and August.
See the towers and turrets of Inveraray Castle
Loch Fyne in the Western Highlands is famous for both oysters and this pearl of a Scottish ancestral seat, its tubular towers crowned with witch’s-hat spires.
Behind the arched windows in its granite-gray facade, the ornate interiors include the 18th-century drawing room’s painted ceiling and French Beauvais tapestries, the opulent State Dining Room and the Armoury Hall with some 1300 weapons. Head "below stairs" to the tearoom and old kitchen, explore the grounds on a 1.5-mile woodland walk and overnight in one of the estate’s cottages.

The 8 best castles in Scotland

Some of the best places to visit in Scotland will be instantly familiar to anyone who’s ever gazed at a whisky label or shortbread tin. Think dramatic peaks, lonely glens, lochs, tartan and haggis!
From spectacular Skye and historic Edinburgh to the rolling rivers of Speyside, Scotland’s big sights are as glorious as you’d imagine. But scratch the surface of this proud nation and you’ll find a varied and engrossing place, dotted with prehistoric villages, wild clubs, rich seafood and ruined abbeys.
So, where to start? Once you've decided on the best time for your visit, you need to decide on the best places to go while you're there. Here is our pick of the best destinations in Scotland to get you started.

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Enjoy Scotland's biggest landscapes on the West Highland Way
Best place for hiking
The best way to really get inside Scotland's landscapes is to walk them. Here, peaks tower over lochs and sea cliffs gaze over the wind-whipped sea, but there are short woodland trails and charming strolls through valleys dusted with purple heather too. Top of the wish list for many hikers is the 96-mile West Highland Way from Milngavie (near Glasgow) to Fort William, a weeklong walk through some of the country's finest scenery, finishing in the shadow of its highest peak, Ben Nevis.
The 1345m (4413ft) summit of Ben Nevis is within reach of anyone who's reasonably fit: treat the peak with respect and your reward (weather permitting) will be magnificent views that can stretch as far as Northern Ireland. If you don’t have the time or energy for a long-distance trek, it's possible to do just a day's hike along part of the trail.
For example, you could walk the section from Rowardennan to Inversnaid, returning to your starting point using the Loch Lomond waterbus. Whichever section you take on, pack waterproofs and midge repellent. Rail lovers should note that sleeper trains run south from Fort William all the way to London, making for an easy exit after a walk.
The Isle of Skye packs in some of Scotland's most beautiful scenery
Best place for photographers
In a country famous for stunning scenery, the Isle of Skye takes the top prize. From the craggy peaks of the Cuillins and the bizarre pinnacles of the Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing to the spectacular sea cliffs of Neist Point, there's a photo opportunity awaiting you at almost every turn.
Skye is also one of the best places in Scotland to see golden eagles, and you’ll find convivial pubs and top seafood restaurants, if you can tear your eyes from the natural world. Of course, all this tourist appeal makes Skye one of Scotland's most popular destinations.
The crowds tend to stick to Portree, Dunvegan and Trotternish – it’s almost always possible to find peace and quiet in the island’s further-flung corners. Come prepared for changeable weather though – when it’s fine, it’s very fine indeed, but all too often it isn’t.

Edinburgh serves up history, culture and dramatic landscapes in equal measures © Andrew Merry / Getty Images

Come to Edinburgh for one of Europe's best city breaks
Best place for year-round entertainment
Scotland's capital may be famous for its festivals, but there's much more to the city than that. Edinburgh is a place of many moods: visit in spring to see the Old Town silhouetted against a blue sky and a yellow haze of daffodils, or on a chill winter’s day for fog snagging the spires of the Royal Mile, rain on the cobblestones, and a warm glow beckoning from the windows of local pubs.
Start your visit to Edinburgh with a climb up Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano with panoramic views over the city. With a world-class modern art gallery, top museums, spooky historic sites and a majestic 12th-century castle, there's plenty to keep you entertained whatever the season.
Loch Lomond is the perfect day trip on the west coast
Best place for a lakeside walk
Despite being less than an hour's drive from the bustle and sprawl of Glasgow, the bonnie braes (banks) of Loch Lomond – immortalized in the words of one of Scotland's best-known songs – comprise one of the most scenic parts of the country.
At the heart of Scotland's first national park, the loch begins as a broad, island-peppered lake in the south, its shores clothed in bluebell-sprinkled woods, before narrowing in the north to a fjord-like trench ringed by mountains. The summit of Ben Lomond (974m/3031ft) is a popular climb – follow the well-maintained path for a 7-mile round-trip on the popular Tourist Route (allow around 5 hours).
Take a pilgrimage to the spiritual home of golf at St Andrews
Best place for golfers
Scotland invented the game of golf and the city of St Andrews is still revered as its spiritual home by hackers and champions alike. Links courses are the classic experience here – bumpy coastal affairs where the rough is heather and machair (coastal grass) and the main enemy is the wind, which can make a disaster of a promising round in an instant.
St Andrews, the historic Fife university town, is golf's headquarters, and an irresistible destination for anyone who loves the sport. And if you're not so keen, well, the city has impressive medieval ruins, stately university buildings, idyllic white sands and excellent guesthouses and restaurants.

Glasgow shines brightest after dark © georgeclerk / Getty Images

Head to Glasgow to sample great Scottish pub culture
Best place for live music
Scotland's biggest city may lack Edinburgh's stunning setting, but it more than makes up for it with a barrelful of things to do and a warmth and energy that leaves every visitor impressed. Edgy and contemporary, it's a great spot to browse art galleries and museums, and to discover the works of local design hero Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
Glasgow’s infectious vitality is best sampled via its lively pubs and clubs, which host one of the world's great live music scenes. Check out upcoming (mostly alt-rock) acts at the Barrowland, a legendary former ballroom, or try the Sub Club for house and techno, the Clutha Bar for roots and rock, or Nice N Sleazy, a classic indie dive.
Stirling in summer is a must for fortress fans
Best place for castles
With an impregnable position atop a mighty wooded crag – the plug of an extinct volcano – Stirling ’s beautifully preserved Old Town is a treasure trove of historic buildings and cobbled streets winding up to the ramparts of Stirling Castle. This fortress has seen serious action – it was bombarded by the Warwolf, a giant 14th-century English siege engine, and was besieged during the 1745 Jacobite rising, as well as sending troops to the battle of Bannockburn (the decisive battle celebrated at the end of Braveheart), just a few miles south.
Today, views that stretch to the Highlands, glorious tapestries and juicy history make this Scotland’s best castle – and a great family attraction. It's best to visit in the afternoon; many tourists come on day trips, so you may have the castle almost to yourself by 4pm.
Drive the unforgettable North Coast 500
Best place for a scenic road trip
Breathtaking views abound in the Highlands, but the far north is where things become truly awe-inspiring. This is the best place in Scotland to explore by car (you can also cycle it), with some of the finest roadside scenery in Europe.
The North Coast 500 starts and ends in the likable city of Inverness, and loops past the lochs, sand dunes and golf courses of the east coast before taking in the remote cliffs and beaches of Cape Wrath, the rugged peaks of Assynt and Torridon’s desolate beauty. These sights, and the nooks of warm Highland hospitality found in the region's classic rural pubs and old crofting villages, make this an unforgettable weeklong tour.

Skara Brae is the most intact and atmospheric of Scotland's many neolithic settlements © Pecold / Shutterstock

Orkney’s Skara Brae is a prehistoric wonder
Best place for lovers of ancient history
When visiting ancient sites, it can sometimes be difficult to bridge the gulf of years or build a connection with the people that built them, but Scotland’s superb prehistoric remains have an immediate impact. Few places offer a better glimpse of everyday Stone Age life than Skara Brae in Orkney, with its carefully constructed fireplaces, beds, cupboards and water cisterns.
This Neolithic village – which, at 5000 years, is older than Stonehenge or the Pyramids of Giza –  lay buried in coastal sand dunes for centuries. Even today, it can feel as though the inhabitants have just slipped out to go fishing and could return at any moment.
Walk through the dramatic scenery of Glen Coe
Best place for clan history
Scotland's most famous glen combines two essential qualities of the Highlands: dramatic scenery and a deep sense of history. The peace and beauty of this valley today belies the fact that Glen Coe was the scene of a ruthless 17th-century massacre, when the local MacDonalds were murdered by soldiers of the Campbell clan.
Some of the glen's finest walks – to the Lost Valley, for example – follow the routes taken by fleeing clanspeople, many of whom perished in the snow. Start at the Glencoe Visitor Centre for more information on this beautiful place and its tragic history.
Experience the whole Scottish package in Perthshire
Best place to enjoy nature's bounty
In Perthshire, the heart of Scotland, picturesque towns bloom with flowers, distilleries emit tempting malty odors and sheep graze in impossibly green meadows. There's a feeling of the bounty of nature that no other place in Scotland can replicate.
Blue-gray lochs shimmer, reflecting the changing moods of the weather; centuries-old trees tower amid riverside forests; majestic glens scythe their way into remote wildernesses; and salmon leap upriver to the place of their birth.

The Shetlands are home to vast colonies of birds, including characterful puffins © jacquesvandinteren / Getty Images

Go off the travel map in the Shetland Islands, Scotland's most dramatic outpost
Best place for birdwatching
Close enough to Norway to make Scottish nationality an ambiguous concept, the Shetland Islands are Britain’s most northerly outpost. The stirringly bleak setting – recognized as a precious Unesco geopark – still feels uniquely Scottish though, with deep, naked glens flanked by steep hills, twinkling, sky-blue lochs and, of course, wandering sheep on the little-trafficked roads. It's the birdlife though that really draws visitors here.
From their first arrival in late spring to the raucous feeding frenzies of high summer, the vast colonies of gannets, guillemots, skua, puffins and kittiwakes at Hermaness, Noss, Sumburgh Head and Fair Isle provide some of Britain's most impressive birdwatching experiences. Shetland is one of the best places in the UK to spot killer whales and the Northern Lights, too.
Follow the River Spey on a Speyside whisky tour
Best place for whisky tasting
Scotland's national drink is whisky – from the Gaelic uisge beatha, meaning “water of life” – and this fiery spirit has been distilled here for more than 500 years. More than 50 distilleries are in operation in Speyside, Scotland's most famous whisky area, famed for fruity, lightly spicy flavors (head over to Islay for peatier varieties).
Dufftown lies at the heart of the region and is host to the biannual Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival. Ask at the town's Whisky Museum about the Malt Whisky Trail, a self-guided tour around the local distilleries. If you just have time for one, the Balvenie Distillery is a good bet, as it still uses a traditional malting floor – the smell is glorious!
See another side to Scotland in the Borders
Best place for a country ramble
Many visitors to Scotland race up to Edinburgh then hightail it to the Highlands, missing the Scottish Borders out entirely. That's their loss. Once fought over by war chiefs and cattle thieves, the Borders region is rich in history and packed with good cycling and hiking routes.
There are grand country houses too – Traquair House brews Jacobite Ale and has a concealed room that once hid Catholic priests – and a series of gorgeous ruined abbeys – Gothic Melrose Abbey is the best – plus birds and sea cliffs at St Abb’s Head. More active types can fish for salmon or thunder down the mountain bike trails at Glentress and Innerleithen.

The 14 best places to visit in Scotland

The Qatari desert offers some of the planet’s most surreal and splendid scenery – a land of wide-open beauty, shaped by the steady forces of wind and sun. It’s also a place of solitude, where a slow camel ride across time-worn tracks connects remote campsites to settlements that seem to blend into their surroundings.
Look closer (or ask a local) and you might be surprised by how much there is to see in the sand. The Qatari desert offers history to be found, fun to be had, sights to be explored and memories to be made. Come see this spiritual tapestry, one of the few places in the world where the sea meets the desert, and leave changed forever.

The astonishing Khor Al Adaid is one of the main attractions in Qatar © Courtesy of Qatar Tourism

Get to know the deserts
In Qatar you’ll find two different types of deserts. Picture-perfect sandy dunes hem the Khor Al Adaid, the Inland Sea. They are an extension of the Rub-al-Khali, the Empty Quarter that stretches along Oman, Saudi Arabia and the UAE and is the world’s largest sand desert. Then there is the hamada, a land of otherworldly rock formations like the ones found in the north-western region of Zekreet.
The astonishing Khor Al Adaid, on UNESCO’s tentative world heritage list for its ethereal beauty, is one of the main attractions in Qatar. Stunning ever-shifting sand dunes lie beside the turquoise waters of the ‘Inland Sea,’ a salty inlet from the Gulf.

Stay the night in a Bedouin camp, then wake to watch the sun rise over the dunes © Qatar Tourism

The dunes seem to beg to be explored and if you answer the call, you should definitely go by 4WD. Hire a local, skilled driver to take the wheel and show you what’s possible, going at high speeds up, down and across the dunes in an exhilarating joyride.
Make time for a picnic along the coastline of the inlet – between November and March it’s alive with pink flamingos who spend the winter here. You can also ride camels through the dunes, slide on sand boards down the soft swells, go scuba diving in the warm, inviting waters, or stay the night in a Bedouin camp. Settle down after sunset for a barbecue dinner by a bonfire, gaze at the stars in the seemingly endless sky unspoiled by light pollution, then wake to watch the sun rise over the dunes.

Some sand dunes seem to groan as you slide down them on a sandboard © nullplus / Shutterstock

For an unexpected audio experience you can’t get anywhere else, search out the so-called Singing Dunes, which lie inland between the communities of Al Wakrah and Mesaieed. While it might be a stretch to say they ‘sing,’ many of the dunes do seem to groan as you slide down them on a sandboard. This is reportedly due to the compression of the grains of sand – but since not all dunes exhibit this phenomenon, the horseshoe shape of specific dunes might have something to do with it as well.
From sea to dune, adventure abounds in Qatar

The petroglyphs of Al Jassasiya feature more than 800 carvings of fish, sailboats and what many experts believe to be game boards © Alizada Studios / Shutterstock

History on display
North of the capital of Doha, there is a wealth of history to discover in the Qatari desert. On the main road to the north you’ll find the Barzan Towers, built with coral, limestone and mud in the late 19th century as lookout towers for approaching Ottoman ships. The structures’ walls are 40 inches thick, with wooden poles marking the floors. The towers, which seem to rise out of the desert itself, are currently being restored and a visitors’ center is being added.
Further on you’ll find something few people expect to find in Qatar, or in the desert at all: pre-historic rock carvings. At Al Jassasiya you can see these well-preserved petroglyphs on flat rocks at a site you would normally drive past without thinking twice. But stop and get out, and you will discover more than 800 carvings of fish, sailboats and what many experts believe to be game boards. You can almost picture the people who lived here thousands of years ago throwing shells or small pebbles into these symmetrical holes in the rock – playing a game like mancala while waiting for the fishing nets to fill.
There is some dispute as to exactly how old these petroglyphs are, with estimates ranging from 8,000 BC to the 10th century AD. Either way, considering the nomadic lifestyle of the region’s people, these rocks provide a glimpse into desert culture and a rich history of Qatar.
Explore the mysterious signs and symbols of Qatar's Al Jassasiya rock carvings

Al Zubara Fort was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2013 © Qatar Tourism

Art and architecture
In these eternal deserts of otherworldly beauty, the dry air has preserved several forts worth exploring for the stories they tell of Qatar’s history. One of the oldest is Al Wajbah Fort, built in the year 1882 – it’s only 9.3 miles west of Doha near Al Rayyan, with a distinctive red border to its sturdy wall. The best preserved is Al Zubara Fort, which was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2013. Built in 1938 by Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani, the fort is located near the deserted town of Zubara and incorporates a small museum and a rather sleek monument.
Along the coastline, toward Al Ruwais, there are the abandoned picturesque Al Jamail fishing villages, which are fun to explore, and south from there you’ll find the Al Thaqab Fort, sitting on a site which archaeological evidence suggests had been inhabited since the 10th century. ‘Thaqab’ means ‘the water in the bottom of the valley after the rain,’ which references a deep fountain near the fort, which would have brought prosperity to the region.

East-West/West-East by Richard Serra © Qatar Tourism

One of the most surprising sights in the Qatari desert is the amazing art installation by Richard Serra, titled East-West/West-East. In the northwest of the peninsula 50 miles from Doha, in the region of Zekreet, with its wind-eroded rock formations, stand four 50ft-tall steel plates along a stretch of desert spanning more than half a mile. After making your way there, with parts of the drive off road where the journey becomes part of the adventure, the rusty-red steel plates rising against the shifting, sand-colored background makes for the most impressive and powerful art installation in Qatar.

Unexpected experiences in the Qatari desert

The treasures of Jordan have beguiled visitors for centuries, from the cliff-carved city of Petra – unknown to Westerners for centuries – to the otherworldly rust-red sands of Wadi Rum.
Access to Jordan’s most popular tourist attractions, plus a whole host of other visit-worthy sites around the country, is now more affordable for travelers thanks to this program. Read on to discover why the Jordan Pass is the right decision for most visitors.

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What is the Jordan Pass?
Offered by the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, the Jordan Pass package combines a tourist visa with admission to about 40 tourist sites across the country for a discounted price. The price starts at JD70 (about US$98), with three options available depending on whether you’d like to visit Petra for one, two or three days.

Access to the Mars-like landscapes of Wadi Rum is included with the Jordan Pass © Tom Mackie / Lonely Planet

Is getting a Jordan Pass worth it?
The Jordan Pass is best suited to travelers who are:

traveling independently (not with a tour group)
eligible for a visa on arrival
planning to visit Petra
planning to spend at least three nights in Jordan

The three-night minimum is a requirement, so if you will only be in Jordan for a day (on a side trip from Israel, for example), you will not be able to take advantage of the savings. Because the cost of the pass is based on entrance to Petra, it doesn’t make sense to buy it if you aren’t planning to spend time in the ancient city. (For the record: we think any visitor to the country shouldn’t miss this extraordinary place!)
The value of the Jordan Pass in terms of the visa fee is dependent on your nationality. Travelers from more than 100 countries are eligible for a visa on arrival . If you fit into this category, you are traveling independently and you purchase the Jordan Pass online before you arrive in the country, your visa fee of JD40 (about US$56) is waived. That alone makes the Jordan Pass a good deal, even if Petra is the only site you visit among the dozens included with the pass.
If you’re traveling with a tour operator, you are already eligible for waived fees, so the Jordan Pass is probably not worth it. Ask your operator whether your visa fees and site entry fees are included in your tour.
Standard entry fees for Petra are JD50 (about US$70) for one day, JD55 for two days or JD60 for a three-day visit. The multiple price points for the Jordan Pass align with the additional entrance fees to Petra.
Here are some tips for making the most of the Jordan Pass.

Discover Petra

If you have only a few days in Jordan…
Hit the highlights. Plan at least one full day to cover a good amount of ground in Petra, then spend a night or two immersed in Wadi Rum, another Unesco-listed site included with the Jordan Pass.
While one day in Petra might be enough for the casual visitor, hikers and history buffs will want to allow more time to to get off the typical tourist track. Choose the three-day Jordan Pass, and you’ll have enough time to visit the High Place of Sacrifice, make a one-day pilgrimage to Jebel Haroun (one of the best viewpoints of the region, and a site that’s said to the the burial place of Aaron, brother of Moses) and hike the back way to the Monastery from Little Petra, in addition to spending more time at the more popular Petra spots such as the Treasury and Royal Tombs.
After you’ve had your fill of Petra, enjoy the slow pace and starry nights in Wadi Rum. Hike and camp with local Bedouin or ride 4x4s through the deserts, exploring the craggy rock faces and windswept sand dunes.

The ruins of the ancient Roman city of Jerash are among the best-preserved you’ll find, and admission is included with the Jordan Pass © Irene Sánchez / EyeEm / Getty Images

If you have a week in Jordan…
Take a road trip to take in some Jordan Pass attractions. Start in Jerash, one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world, located less than an hour’s drive from Amman. On-site signage is limited, so hire a guide to show you around and share stories of this historic, picturesque place.
Ajloun Castle, another attraction included with the Jordan Pass, is about 30 minutes from Jerash, an easy add-on if you’ve got some time to spare before driving south to Amman.
Once in Amman, stop by the restored Roman Theatre, then visit the nearby Citadel for panoramic views (and sunset if you time it right) from atop the capital’s highest hill. Overnight it in the capital, then set out early the next day for Petra, allowing time for a slight detour to Karak Castle, one of the largest Crusader castles in the region and another fee-free attraction for Jordan Pass holders.
From Karak, continue on to Petra and Wadi Rum following the tips above, and afterward add a day in Aqaba for snorkeling plus two additional Jordan Pass attractions: Aqaba Fort and Aqaba Museum.
If you’re interested in religious sites…
Be sure to include Madaba on your itinerary. It’s an easy day trip from Amman or a nice stop on the way to the Dead Sea or southern Jordan. About 30 minutes from the Queen Alia International Airport, Madaba is also a great place to spend your first day or night when you arrive in Jordan.
Both the Madaba Museum and the Madaba Archaeological Park are included in the Jordan Pass, and you’ll also find Byzantine-era mosaics (including one of the oldest mosaic fragments in Jordan), archaeological exhibits, a preserved section of Roman road, the Church of the Virgin Mary, Ottoman buildings and more here. While in town, a visit to St George’s Church (not included in the Jordan Pass but just JD1 to enter) to see the impressive floor mosaic – and the oldest known map of the Holy Land – is a must.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can reach several Jordan Pass sites on foot by hiking the Jordan Trail © Justin Foulkes / Lonely Planet

If you want to get off the beaten track…
In addition to the big hitters, the Jordan Pass includes access to a number of interesting sites farther from the well-trodden tourist trail.
Off the beaten track in northern Jordan, you’ll find several intriguing archaeological sites such as Umm Al Jimal (the best-preserved Byzantine town in the region, where excavations are currently underway), the Greco-Roman ruins of Gadara in Umm Qais, and Pella, another lesser-known archaeological site near the town of Taqabat Fahl.
If you’re staying in Amman, take a day trip to the Iraq Al Amir Cooperative, where you can enjoy lunch and handicraft workshops before catching the sunset at the archaeological site. Entrance to the site is included with the Jordan Pass, with activities at the women’s cooperative available to book separately.
If you’re traveling King’s Highway while road-tripping through Jordan, consider a stop at Umm Ar-Rasas (a Unesco-listed site where you’ll find gorgeous stone arches and very few, if any, other visitors) and Shobak Castle, the oldest Crusader fortress in the country.
One of the best ways to get around Jordan and get the most out of the Jordan Pass is to travel by foot and hike some of the Jordan Trail. Many of the sites included in the Jordan Pass are found along the Jordan Trail, such as Umm Qais, Pella, Jerash, Ajloun Castle, Iraq Al Amir, Karak Castle, Petra and Wadi Rum, among others. The Jordan Pass expires two weeks after first use; since you won’t have time to cover the full Jordan Trail, we recommend choosing a section suited to your interests.

How to get the most out of the Jordan Pass

Athens is a sun-drenched, charming, and buzzing modern metropolis, offering everything a visitor can expect for an exciting stay. But it is the city’s omnipresent tokens of its glorious past that make Athens a unique cultural destination with extraordinary energy and appeal.

Detail of the Caryatid Porch on the Erechtheum Temple on the Acropolis in Athens, Greece © Nick N A / Shutterstock

A millennia’s worth of history is housed in the city’s many museums as well as in countless in-situ ruins and archaeological sites – eternal reminders of a past that shaped the western civilization.
A walk around these magnificent monuments, on the same soil where democracy, art, drama, science, sculpture, and philosophy flourished centuries ago, is an uplifting experience for any traveler. Here are our favorites:

The Acropolis of Athens, with the Parthenon Temple on top of the hill © Shutterstock

The Acropolis, a beacon of universal splendor
The Acropolis of Athens, a sight universally associated with the city, is the crown jewel of its monuments and the starting point of every traveler’s excursion through the wonders of Greek civilization and history.
Built between 447-437BC during the “Golden Age” of Athens under statesman Pericles, and dedicated to the goddess Athena, the Parthenon is a timeless masterpiece of architecture with a profound influence on the history of humanity. It was designed and built by some of the most famous architects of the time – Iktinos and Kallikrates – and decorated by the genius sculptor Phidias.
Also on the sacred rock, you’ll marvel at several other monuments. The Erechtheion features the glorious Caryatids – stone pillars carved in the forms of women. The original Caryatids are safely housed in the nearby tremendous Acropolis Museum (one is in the British Museum) but replicas have been put in place. There’s also the imposing Propylaea entrance to the rock, and the compact but brilliant Temple of Athena Nike. Together with the Parthenon these sights constitute the iconic Greek antiquity complex.

Hadrian's Arch is a monumental gateway resembling a Roman triumphal arch © Joaquin Ossorio Castillo / Shutterstock

The marvelous surroundings
Exploration and excavation of the surrounding sites began in the 19th century, soon after the establishment of the modern Greek state, and continued until the middle of the 20th century.  At the dawn of the century, the ‘Unification of the Archaeological Sites of Athens’ project resulted in the pedestrianization of the Ancient Promenade, arguably one of the most beautiful walks in the world.
On the southern slope and within the site of the Acropolis lie the remains of the ancient Theatre of Dionysos, where the plays of the great dramatists – Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides – were performed. These days, in the spectacular Odeon of Herodes Atticus, performances of opera, dance theater, and music are held almost daily in summer – an unforgettable way to spend an evening in the capital.
Following the pedestrian Dionisiou Areopagitou Street to the east, the imposing Hadrian’s Arch emerges across the street. Built in 131AD, it combines Roman with Greek architectural elements. Just next to the Arch is the Temple of Olympian Zeus, one of the largest of the era. It was constructed in the 6th century BC but remained unfinished through the ‘Golden Century’ of Athens and was only completed by Hadrian, in 132AD. The Temple once boasted a fine gold-and-ivory statue of Zeus. Only fifteen of the temple’s original 104 columns are still standing, while a sixteenth column lies on the ground, stricken by a storm in the 19th century.
Chasing legends in Greece’s stunning Peloponnese

The Panathenaic Stadium was restored to host the first modern Olympic Games, in 1896 © Aerial-motion / Shutterstock

Panathenaic Stadium
A small worthy detour from the Acropolis in the opposite direction, and through the gardens of the impressive Zappeion Hall, will take you to the Panathenaic Stadium, a replica of an ancient stadium that existed on this site. It was restored to host the first modern Olympic Games, in 1896.
Stop to refuel at one of the many cafes in the in the narrow alleys of Plaka, the old town of Athens. Lysikrates Monument is a famous landmark in the area. From Plaka, the visitor can reach the northern slope of the rock and the spring of Klepsydra, the three cave sanctuaries dedicated to Pan, Zeus, and Apollo, as well as the sanctuary of Aphrodite and Eros.

The Roman Agora was the center of city activity during Roman times © Anastasios71 / Shutterstock

The Roman Forum (Agora)
The archaeological site of the Roman Agora, with its impressive Dorian gate of Athena Archegetis, and Hadrian’s Library lie north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient Agora. The Roman Agora was the center of city activity during Roman times, while the library housed the state archives and philosophical works and was its spiritual, educational, and cultural center.
Inside the archaeological site are important monuments such as the Water Clock (Horologion) or Tower of the Winds with sculpted depictions of wind-gods, the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomeion, and the Fethiye Mosque.

The Ancient Agora of Athens was once the religious, political, and commercial center of the city © Ruben M Ramos / Shutterstock

The Ancient Agora, a global symbol of Democracy
The Ancient Agora was the heart of the public life of the city – its religious, political, and commercial center. Walking in the surroundings where Athenian Democracy was born and flourished is an awe-inspiring experience and an opportunity to reflect on human achievement, western civilization, and timelessness.
Wander around the greenery and admire marble remains and statues, the striking, well preserved Temple of Hephaistos, a Byzantine Church, and the compact but fascinating Agora Museum. Above  looms the rock of Areopagus, the seat of the first court of law in Europe, with panoramic views of the Agora, the Acropolis, and the city of Athens.
The best sustainable tourism experiences in Greece

The monument of Philopappos sits at the top of the hill of the Pnyx © Anastasios71 / Shutterstock

The Western Hills
The pine-covered Western Hills (Hill of the Muses or Philopappou Hill, the Pnyx and the Hill of the Nymphs), lies southwest of the Acropolis. On the hill of the Pnyx were held the meetings of the Assembly of ‘Demos’ (Assembly of the Citizens), the most important institution of the Athenian Democracy. The monument of Philopappos stands on top of the hill and if you’re brave enough to climb it you’ll be rewarded with a splendid view of the city – down to the port of Piraeus and the island of Aegina on a clear day. Socrates' Prison is also located on the slopes of the hill.

The serene ancient Kerameikos Cemetery is the perfect end to a tour of Archaeological Athens © Nejdet Duzen / Shutterstock

Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery and Thissio
After a wander around the antiquity marvels of the capital, it’s now time for a lazy descending stroll back to the Ancient Promenade toward Thission, where the serene ancient cemetery of Kerameikos and its small museum are located.
An array of al fresco cafes and restaurants with a direct view of the Acropolis line the walkway around the Thissio metro station – the perfect finish to an inspiring day of world-class sightseeing.

Archaeological Athens: Walking through the city’s history

Guatemala is a dream destination for nature lovers and adventurers, and while the country has no shortage of outdoor adventures, it offers so much more than just volcanoes and jungles.

From studying Spanish in the colonial mountain town of Quetzaltenango to experiencing a sacred Mayan cacao ceremony at Lago de Atitlán, Guatemala serves up plentiful opportunities to forge a deeper connection with the people and the land.

Here are our top 12 things to do in Guatemala.

Paraglide over Lago de Atitlán

The astounding beauty of Lago de Atitlán is usually appreciated from the shores of this serene volcanic lake, or from the peak of the San Pedro volcano, but a more unusual way to take in all of its beauty is by paragliding over the placid waters.

Real World Paragliding will take you on a soaring flight that offers bird’s-eye views of the deep crater lake and the towering trifecta of volcanoes that surround it. The tours take about 45 minutes and start in the village of Santa Catarina Palopo, near Panajachel, or from the village of Santa Clara La Laguna, closer to San Pedro La Laguna.

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Surf on a black-sand beach at El Paredon

The black-sand beaches of the Pacific coast of Guatemala are growing in popularity as a great place to surf. The laid-back fishing village of El Paredon is less crowded than other surf beaches in Central America and it has waves suitable for both beginners and experienced surfers. The long-established, beach-front El Paredon Surf Camp offers basic accommodations, surf lessons and board rentals.

Visit the women weavers of San Juan La Laguna

Made on traditional backstrap looms, Guatemalan textiles are some of the most beautiful in the world, and if you spend any amount of time in this country, you’re bound to become curious about how these colorful patterns are made. The lakeside village of San Juan La Laguna is the perfect place to take a deep dive into the world of weaving while indulging in some socially responsible shopping at the same time.

The narrow streets of San Juan La Laguna are lined with dozens of women’s cooperatives, where Mayan weavers use backstrap looms to create gorgeous, intricate textiles. Arrange a tour through a company such as Casa Flor Ixcaco to visit one of these co-ops and learn how the weavers use local organic cotton and natural dyes made from fruits, vegetables, plants and herbs to create the fabrics. A visit is an excellent way to learn about Guatemalan culture, support local people, and find some ethical souvenirs to bring back home.

Study Spanish in Quetzaltenango

The mountain town of Quetzaltenango is full of Spanish schools, and cafes where you can swot up on grammar dot its rustic, charming cobblestone streets. With a cooler climate than the rest of the country and more economical prices than Antigua, it’s the perfect place to stay and study Spanish in a town less frequented by tourists.

Spanish schools offer homestays and lots of activities to complement in-class learning, including visits to nearby hot springs, volcano hikes and cultural evenings to learn about the history of the region from guest speakers. Proyecto Lingüistico Quetzalteco has been operating its socially responsible language program for many years, and it’s run by a collective of excellent teachers – courses here are highly recommended for those who want to learn more about the social, political and economic realities of life in Guatemala.

Experience a cacao ceremony in San Marcos La Laguna

For a different kind of travel experience, joining a hot chocolate ceremony might appeal. This activity is gaining popularity in the town of San Marcos La Laguna, where ceremonial circles gather to drink Guatemalan-style hot chocolate under the counsel of a local guide. Cacao has been cultivated in Guatemala since before the conquistadors arrived, and many believe Guatemala to be the original birthplace of chocolate. This ancient foodstuff was used as currency before money was introduced, and it has long been revered as a health elixir and aphrodisiac.

During a cacao ceremony, a Mayan spiritual guide will prepare a drink prepared with ground cacao, sweetenings and spices. The ceremony that follows is intended to introduce those in the circle to the sacred and medicinal properties of the cacao bean. Cacao is traditionally known as a heart-opening beverage that helps those who drink it to connect with nature, one another and themselves.

Visit a coffee farm from historic Antigua

Thanks to their lofty elevation, moderate temperatures and mineral-rich volcanic soil, the highlands of Guatemala produce some of the best coffee in the world. And many of the country’s coffee farms are located in the hills around Antigua, making for a perfect day trip from this charming colonial city.

Visitors can take a luxury tour of famous Finca Filadelfia, a gorgeous sprawling plantation that’s more than 140 years old, or opt for a smaller co-op such as De la Gente, where community tours are led by the coffee growers themselves. Both experiences take visitors through the entire coffee-making process from seed to cup, with an opportunity for coffee tasting at the end.

Climb a volcano and roast marshmallows over lava

It can be hard to choose which volcano to climb in Guatemala, but Volcán Pacaya is a good bet for almost everyone. This moderately paced hike starts close to Antigua and the volcano can be climbed in a day, with the added excitement of seeing fresh lava at the top.

Because Pacaya is a designated national park, plenty of amenities are available, including stands where you can rest and buy local treats along the way. But the best snack break happens near the top, where everyone pulls out marshmallows to roast over the cooling lava. Hiking Volcán Pacaya is an easy day trip from Antigua, and the experience is best booked through a local agency.

Drink at the oldest bar in Guatemala City

Rumored to have been the favorite watering hole of Che Guevara during his many visits to Guatemala City in the 1950s, El Portal was the first proper bar to open in the capital back in 1932. It’s tucked in the heart of the historic center, and stopping in for a drink feels like stepping back in time. The menu hasn’t changed much over the years either, and you can sidle up to the old wooden bar and drink a cold pint of Gallo beer while listening to marimba music and enjoying the friendly atmosphere.

Haggle your way around the Chichicastenango market

Nestled in the green mountains of the western highlands, the town of Chichicastenango hosts a famous artisans’ market every Sunday and Thursday, and it should be on every serious shopper's list of things to do in Guatemala. The historic market was once the main trading center for the Quiché region before the conquistadors arrived, and the tradition of people coming from surrounding villages to sell goods continues to this day.

Expect to find a labyrinth of stalls piled high with gorgeous textiles – the most popular items are huipils, the traditional blouses woven and worn by Mayan women. Other crafts that can be found at the market include wood carvings, masks, leather goods, pottery, jade and silver and gold jewelry. A visit to the market is an easy day trip from Quetzaltenango or Lago de Atitlán.

Birdwatch in the cloud forests of Alta Verapaz

Teeming with orchids, ferns and bromeliads, the cloud forests of Alta Verapaz are an untouched wilderness and a birdwatcher’s paradise. The best place to spot birds is in the Biotopo del Quetzal, a nature reserve dedicated to protecting Guatemala’s national bird – the striking red and teal-colored quetzal. The pine, cypress and eucalyptus trees host many other species of tropical birds, including the emerald toucanet and forest falcons. The best time of year to see quetzals is in March or June, just before or after the nesting season.

Visit the jungle ruins of Tikal

The ruins of Tikal are buried deep in the jungle in El Petén, surrounded by lush vegetation and stalked by screaming howler monkeys and colorful toucans. Once the most important city in the Maya world, this impressive ancient site is home to more than 200 structures, some of which are still completely or partially swallowed by jungle.

The most dramatic building is Templo IV, a pyramid rising 65m (213ft) above the grassy courtyard below – it’s the perfect place to watch the sunrise. Exploring the ruins takes a full day, and it’s a standout experience, not only for its archaeological wonders, but also for its exceptional biodiversity. The surrounding jungle shelters hundreds of species of tropical birds, crocodiles, snakes, coatis, monkeys and even the occasional jaguar.

Swim in the otherworldly pools of Semuc Champey

The tiered turquoise pools and natural limestone bridge at Semuc Champey make the perfect destination for water lovers looking for epic photo opportunities. This national monument is a natural paradise, reached via a moderate hike that snakes through lush vegetation and ends at a breathtaking viewpoint looking out over the striking pools and the green gorge beyond. The nearby K’anba Caves are a popular add-on to the hike, and local tour agencies offer candle-lit swims through the underground river cave system.

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The top things to do in Guatemala, from Mayan encounters to volcano treks

It’s possibly the hottest thing to hit Pompeii since the eruption of Mt Vesuvius covered the city in flaming ash and lapilli (burning fragments of pumice stone) back in AD 79. A new exhibition, entitled ‘ Art and Sensuality in the Houses of Pompeii ’, comprises of 70 provocative paintings, sculptures, and other decorative erotica found at the vast 66-hectare archaeological site, on show together for the first time.
Running until January 2023, the exhibition includes racy treasures such as paintings taken from Pompeii’s lupanar (brothel), which depict the sexual acts customers were able to pick from. There is also a restored bedroom ceiling fresco of a naked Leda, the Queen of Sparta, with a swan upon her lap, depicting the god Zeus.
Organizers have said that many of the erotic finds have either been discovered during recent excavation works or were stored away secretly in Naples, Italy at the behest of King Charles VII, the Neapolitan monarch who originally paid for the excavation of the Pompeii site. Only those of proven moral standing were allowed to ever lay eyes on them.
Read more: Take a virtual drone tour of the fascinating new excavations in Pompeii

Some of the art on display at the Pompeii exhibition is truly unmissable © Andreas Solaro / Getty Images

Now anyone with tickets for the exhibition can’t help but stare at the huge sculptured penis of the god Priape, found on a statue-fountain at the exhibition entrance. The artwork wasn’t made for tittering or titillation – that'll be your modern mind, according to the Director of the Archaeological Park of Pompeii, Gabriel Zuchtriegel – instead, it was a Roman symbol of fertility and would have been commonly found in atriums (private courtyards).
“In these times of pandemic emergency and war, this exhibition seeks to be an ode to the resilience of beauty,” Zuchtriegel said at the launch of the show, “but from a historical perspective, which helps us to understand that even in the past, art and the imagination were interwoven with social, cultural and political relationships and hierarchies.”
So what other historical perspective is set to get visitors hot under the collar? Amongst the more interesting ephemera are two medallions found on a four-wheeled Roman chariot used by prominent religious women, which was found on site last year. Both are decorated by cavorting satyrs and nymphs and are joined by a wooden chest that is embellished erotically in bronze.
Read more: Inside Pompeii's House of Lovers as it reopens to the public after 40 years

A number of erotic frescos have been rubbed and restored for the new show © Andreas Solaro / Getty Images

The show, which takes place in the western portico of the Large Palaestra, guides visitors through a perfect Pompeian home and allows them to see where sensual beauty would have been on display. There are intimate and erotic scenes taken from the cubicula (bedrooms) of the Villa of Carmiano, plus a cycle of faded images that depict a man and a woman having sex – believed to be used as cultural introduction to Greek erotic literature.
Visitors will also find an ephebe (male adolescent) lampadophore (‘He who bears the lamp’) candleholder which would have been on display in the triclinium (formal dining room). The sculptured lamp would have provided a sly wink to Greek homoeroticism.
As well as at the show, the My Pompeii app also has a new dedicated section that allows visitors to find frescoes and other erotic artworks around the rest of the vast site, which covers more than 1500 well-preserved buildings as well as roads, everyday objects, even people.
Read more: Pompeii: get to know Italy’s legendary ruined city

Organizers have created a guide for children to help them discover the topic in a more age-appropriate way © Andreas Solaro / Getty Images

But with so many phalluses and fanciful sexual imagery on display, won’t someone think of the children? Well, the team has. "The theme may seem difficult, but it is omnipresent in Pompeii, so it must be explained to children in one way or another,” says Zuchtriegel. Indeed, a kids' guide entitled The Centaurs of Pompeii aims to explain the subject by following a centaur called Mares as he tries to find a partner. The book then traces a number of central figures found in ancient mythology, including Ariadne, Dionysus, and Narcissus.
Entry to ‘ Art and Sensuality in the Houses of Pompeii ’ is included in the admission fee. Prices start from €16 ($US17) per adult.
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See another side of Pompeii as exhibition of erotic art opens to the public

If you’ve ever dreamed of hiking a volcano, and exploring ancient ruins, and snorkeling across a coral reef all in one trip, then Central America is the place for you.

Its seven countries offer some of the world’s most sought-after destinations. History buffs will have a hard time choosing between Maya ruins and colonial cities. Nature lovers can stalk monkeys and sloths on treks through the jungle. Or watch newly hatched turtles scramble for the sea. Surfers and beach bums will be satisfied, too – there are endless seaside dream destinations.

Whatever you choose to do, the results won’t disappoint. (You could even do the lot.) Short regional flights and an extensive bus network make it easy to visit several countries in one trip. To narrow it down, here are the 14 best places to visit in Central America. Be warned, though: wherever it is you go, you run the risk of never wishing to leave.

Splash about on Ambergris Caye in Belize

Dubbed La Isla Bonita (The Beautiful Island), Belize ’s most popular vacation island offers sun-drenched days, ritzy resorts and an imaginative culinary scene. The bustling city center, San Pedro, boasts some can’t-miss nightlife, too. But the raison travelers flock here are the island’s bathtub-warm waters and flourishing undersea environs.

Whether you aim to dive off an island dock and backstroke in the surf, kayak through a mangrove lagoon, or snorkel over brightly colored reefs alongside nurse sharks and small stingrays, Ambergris Caye has you covered.

Marvel at Guatemala’s spectacular Lago de Atitlán

Ringed by lush hillsides and towering volcanoes, Central America’s deepest lake is an escape to simpler times. The aquamarine waters of this endorheic crater basin lure travelers from all over the globe. It’s also home to several diverse communities that proudly display their traditional Guatemalan ways of living.

Most travelers come here for long-distance kayaking and volcano climbing. Lively San Pedro La Laguna is great for throwing it down, too. But Lago de Atitlán also attracts those wanting to learn Spanish, practice yoga or stay with a local family. Whatever you do, take some time to relax and reflect as the gentle waters of this glorious lake lap against the shore.

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Get a taste of island life at Bocas del Toro in Panama

Dotted with Caribbean-style clapboard houses and awash with dockside restaurants and hotels, this stunning archipelago is Panama's hottest ticket. Its swaying coco palms and translucent blue water attract throngs of international travelers – some who’ve stayed forever, forming a sizable expat community.

During the day, you can pedal a beach cruiser around, snorkel among giant sea stars, surf reef breaks, tour chocolate farms and feast on delicious Caribbean fare. In the evenings, Latin rhythms and clinking glasses fill the air on Islas Colón.

Discover the forest-covered Mayan city of Tikal in Guatemala

If you strolled this ground 1200 years ago, you’d be walking through a thriving Mayan metropolis. Today, Guatemala ’s most significant archaeological site is all haunting ruins and twisting jungle – interrupted only by the occasional cacophony of bird squawks and howling monkeys.

Tikal once rivaled Rome for size, population and political clout, but a millennium of dense overgrowth has since reclaimed the remains of this once-mighty empire. The sprawling park merits multi-day explorations: either base yourself in laid-back, lakeside Flores, or stay on the site to see the sun rise over these majestic, ancient temples.

Get under the skin of Panama City

The glistening steel-and-glass skyline of Central America’s most hustling, bustling capital city is only its tiara. The heart and soul of the city lie its older districts, such as Casco Viejo. This area brims with restored colonial buildings, many of which are now boutique hotels, swank restaurants, and countless rooftop bars.

Seek out the crumbling 16th-century ruins of Panamá Viejo – part of the original city – as well as the rollicking nightlife of Calle Uruguay. The city's casinos also add another level of excitement. Visitors can drive west to see the ingenious lock system of the world-famous Panama Canal. The rainforest and beach are only a coconut toss away too.

Drive Ruta de las Flores, El Salvador’s best road trip

For a glimpse into the soul of El Salvador, cruise the 20 miles between Sonsonate and Ahuachapan in a car. The local villages, artisanal shops, fragrant coffee plantations and colorful wildflower meadows are essentially the entire (admittedly small) country writ small.

Stop at any of the five main settlements over a weekend and you’ll find them abuzz with food extravaganzas and merrymaking. Leave ample opportunity to shop for crafts and gulp the coffee, regardless of when you go. Don’t be afraid to veer off the main route either: at Los Chorros de Calera you can hike among the cliffs and dive into waterfall-fed swimming holes.

Fall in love at romantic Manuel Antonio in Costa Rica

Manuel Antonio is for lovers. Dozens of exquisite hotels perch on cliffs overlooking the cerulean Pacific on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, and beyond the lavish accommodations, the area’s romantic dining establishments, picturesque beaches and invigorating spa treatments define this welcoming destination.

As a bonus, wildlife encounters are all but guaranteed. Squirrel monkeys swing by at breakfast while iguanas bask with guests by the pool, and true nature lovers can also spy on sloths at the nearby Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. Thrill-seeking honeymooners will also be satisfied, as all the requisite Costa Rica adventures – zip-lining, white-water rafting, kayaking and more – are just beyond your doorstep.

Wander in awe around Granada, Nicaragua’s oldest city

Granada is one of the oldest colonial cities in the region and no trip across Central America is complete without exploring well-preserved architecture. Upon arrival, hop in a horse-drawn carriage and ride around town as you admire the ubiquitous hand-painted tiles and colonial homes.

In Parque Central, the mustard-yellow Catedral de Granada presides over the square, where food vendors and handicraft artisans hawk their goods. Over by the lake, get into a boat or kayak for a tour of Las Isletas – a bunch of volcanic islands just off the city’s shore – where you’ll find fancy vacation homes and an old Spanish fortress.

Chill on the beaches of Costa Rica’s Southern Caribbean Coast

The pace on Costa Rica’s Caribbean shoreline is decidedly sloth-like. And that’s exactly why travelers can’t get enough of it. They come here to slow down, sip on fresh coconuts, lounge on graham-cracker-colored beaches and bathe in the toasty blue-green water.

For those who insist on more active experiences, there are plenty of jungle hikes, cacao farm tours and snorkeling excursions to sign up for. Wild, all-night parties are always an option, too. Just remember to fuel up first on the spectacular local cuisine first: think whole fried snapper with a side of coconut rice and fried plantains, washed down with agua de sapo (unrefined sugar, limes, and ginger known as “toad juice”).

Party the night away at Playa El Tunco in El Salvador

Named for a distinctive pig-shaped rock ( tunco means pig), this black-sand paradise is famous for its beach breaks and even more famous for its hard-partying surfer crowd. Weekend mayhem tops the agendas of locals and tourists alike with everybody nursing their hangovers the next day with thin-crust pizza from Tunco Veloz.

Those seeking a more laid-back experience need only travel a few minutes in either direction to arrive at tranquil, secluded beaches. In the windswept wilderness of Barrio Santiago, turtles hatch along the shore.

Joining the backpacking crowd on Utila in Honduras

If you’ve got big travel dreams but a little budget, Utila is just the spot, particularly if you’re looking to don some flippers. The dreamy turquoise waters off this palm-dotted Caribbean island in Honduras are replete with surreal coral formations and curious fish, and diver certification courses here are some of the world’s least expensive.

All year round, snorkelers and divers can shimmy around near whale sharks on the northern tip of the island. Then, when the adventures are over, some tasty seafood and a lively bar scene await.

Chow down on Caribbean food on Nicaragua’s Corn Islands

If you like it spicy, head for Central America’s Caribbean – in particular, these two remote islands off the eastern coast of Nicaragua. This is the region’s epicenter of spiny lobster, and plenty of locals make a living off ensnaring it. After you’ve had your fill of the coveted crustacean, bite down on whole fried snapper, a heaping plate of rice and beans, and the famous rondon, a local soup with fish, shellfish, tubers, heart of palm, plantains, peppers and piles of spices.

On Great Corn – the larger and busier of the two islands – restaurants serve this stew year-round. The ingredients must simmer all day in a spicy coconut broth, though, so you’ll need to give 24 hours’ notice for your order.

Admire the ancient Mayan sculptures of Copán in Honduras

Of all the Maya ruins scattered around Central America, Copán has the most impressive chiseled stone sculptures. Human-sized carvings are scattered across this Unesco World Heritage site, which is tucked into a scenic river valley that as many as 20,000 people once called home.

A day spent peering around these temples and the surrounding sites offers a deep dive into the region’s past. Don’t miss the revered hieroglyphic stairway, which describes the history of the ancient city’s rulers in the longest inscription of Maya text known to man. The neighboring town of Copán Ruinas has boutique hotels; you can also stay in the nearby, pine-forested hills at Hacienda San Lucas.

Dive Blue Hole Natural Monument in Belize

Just as climbers have Mt Everest, scuba divers have Belize’s Blue Hole National Monument. They dive more than 100ft into this massive submarine sinkhole, cruising past oversized stalactites and sometimes encountering large, powerful reef sharks, as they stare down into the 430ft abyss.

On the nearby islands of Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, you’ll find environmentally friendly and highly experienced tour operators. But travelers seeking a more adventurous experience should consider a stay on Long Caye, a small and secluded island just minutes from the country’s most coveted underwater attractions.

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