The moment you roll up in the national parks you feel it – you're entering someplace special. Maybe it's the mountain air or the smell of trees. Most likely it's because you're about to see something big. Something indescribable.

A canyon so deep you can see two billion years of geological history in its walls. Trees so massive you could fit buildings inside them. If you can only sample a taste of what these parks have to offer, these are the top sights and activities that can’t be missed in the USA's national parks.

From Acadia to Zion: A complete guide to all 63 national parks in the United States

1. Yosemite Valley – Yosemite National Park, California

In Yosemite Valley, the national park system’s crown jewel, massive granite rock formations tower thousands of feet over the Merced River. Wild creeks plummet from the cliff tops, creating a spectacle of waterfalls unlike anywhere on earth. And presiding over it all stand the iconic and mighty sentinels of rock, including El Capitan, Half Dome, the Royal Arches, the Three Brothers and Cathedral Rocks. No matter what people tell you about the summer crowds, the sights of Yosemite Valley are so astonishing that almost nothing can detract from the experience.

11 of the most stunning waterfalls to see at Yosemite National Park and how to see them

2. Going-to-the-Sun Road – Glacier National Park, Montana

One of America’s most spectacular roads is in one of its most spectacular national parks – Glacier. Going-to-the-Sun Road offers steely-nerved motorists the drive of their life. Chiseled out of the mountainside and punctuated by some of the sheerest and most vertiginous drop-offs in the US, this 50-mile, vista-laden strip of asphalt offers drivers access to some of the most astounding sights in the Rockies.

Although it only climbs to 6646 feet (at Logan Pass), it feels as if you’re driving on the roof of the world. Who knew second gear could be so much fun?

These Glacier National Park hikes will make you want to get your backpack

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3. Sunset – Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

When Bob Dylan wrote of God and Woody Guthrie, he said “I may be right or wrong/You’ll find them both/In the Grand Canyon/At sundown.” Of all the places to watch the sunset in the world, few can measure up to the Grand Canyon. Lipan Point is one of the finest spots to do it.

But if you’re feeling leisurely, simply grab a drink and a porch swing on the patio of El Tovar lodge, where you can watch the sunset in style.

Grand Canyon National Park is geological and human history writ large

4. Snake River – Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

Spilling down from Jackson Lake beneath the mighty Teton Range, the wild and scenic Snake River offers some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in the country. Not only are its waters the perfect place to gawk at the Tetons themselves (including the 13,775ft Grand Teton), but they’re prime for wildlife watching.

Numerous outfitters offer float trips ranging from gentle to giant water. No matter which you choose, prepare to be awed.

Discover why Wyoming is the Equality State on this women's history road trip

5. Rock climbing – Joshua Tree National Park, California

Whether you’re a rock-climbing novice or a bouldering goddess, you’ll find heaven above earth when you take to the granite in Joshua Tree. With more than 8000 established climbing routes, this is truly one of the world’s rock meccas.

There are classes for beginners, and the 400-plus climbing formations offer endless fun for seasoned enthusiasts. Amid the giant boulders and sweaty climbers, the bizarre Joshua trees themselves lend the scenery an otherworldly character.

Getting to know Joshua Tree National Park

6. Longs Peak – Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Whether you hike to the top of its 14,259-foot summit or just ogle its glaciated slopes from below, Longs Peak in the Rocky Mountains is truly a feast for the eyes. Given it’s the highest peak in the park, it should be.

Those who attempt the ascent via the Keyhole Route must first brave the hair-raising Ledges, before conquering the Trough and inching across the Narrows, which finally give way to the (whew!) Homestretch. The views from the top are mind-boggling.

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7. The Narrows – Zion National Park, Utah

Check your claustrophobia at the door and prepare to get wet on this hike up the Virgin River into a 2000-foot-deep slot canyon. As you make your way upriver, the cliffs press inward, towering higher and higher until, finally, you reach Wall Street, where the canyon narrows to under 30-foot wide.

Here, the river is bound by massive cliffs, and no matter how many times you’ve checked the weather, it’s impossible to get the thought of flashfloods out of your mind. The beauty of the place in Zion is otherworldly, and the adventure is unforgettable.

Introducing Utah's national parks

8. Wildlife watching – Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, Montana and Idaho

No matter how many nature shows you’ve seen, nothing can prepare you for the first time you spot a moose in the wild. And in Yellowstone, if you don’t see a moose – or a bison or a herd of elk or a bear – you probably have your eyes closed. On par with the Galápagos, the Serengeti and Brazil’s Pantanal, these parks are some of the world’s premier wildlife-watching destinations.

Big mammals are everywhere. The knowledge that grizzlies, wolves and mountain lions are among them simply adds to the rush. Yellowstone is definitely the more popular of the two national parks, but don’t miss the opportunity to experience all the dramatic mountain scenery and crystal blue water that Grand Teton has to offer.

10 of the most spectacular waterfalls at Yellowstone National Park and how to see them

9. Sunrise – Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park, Maine

Catching the country’s “first sunrise” from the top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia is hands-down one of the finest ways to kick off a day. At 1530 feet, Cadillac Mountain is the highest point on Maine’s Mount Desert Island, and the views over the Atlantic are sublime.

The island is one of the easternmost points in the USA, and, while it’s technically not the first place that catches the morning sun, we prefer to do what everyone else up top is doing at sunrise: ignoring the technicalities and blissing out.

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10. Bryce Amphitheater – Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Proof that nature has a wild imagination, hoodoos are one of the strangest formations on the planet.

From the rim of southern Utah’s Bryce Amphitheater, you can look down upon thousands of these bizarre, ancient rock spires as they tower out of the so-called Silent City, a conglomeration of hoodoos so vast you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d landed on another planet. Sunrise over the amphitheater is one of life’s treats.

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11. Hoh Rainforest – Olympic National Park, Washington

Embrace the rain! It’s what makes this temperate rainforest in Olympic, in all its Tolkienesque beauty, one of the greenest places in North America. With an average rainfall of up to 170in (that’s 14ft), it is also one of the wettest.

This tremendous amount of water creates a forest covered in mosses, lichens and ferns, with a canopy so dense the forest floor seems trapped in the perpetual low light of dusk. Pack your rain shell and watch for the Roosevelt elk.

The best hikes in Olympic National Park offer sea stacks, waterfalls and ancient petroglyphs

12. Paddling – Everglades National Park, Florida

The third-largest of the country's national parks is a paddler’s paradise, with kayak and canoe “trails” meandering through mangrove swamps and freshwater marshes that teem with wildlife.

Crocodiles, alligators (no, honey, that’s not a floating log), turtles, cormorants, herons, egrets and fish are just some of the wildlife boaters come across while paddling around this subtropical park. Thanks to Everglades National Park's handy (and free) kayak and canoe trail maps, navigating the waters is fairly straightforward. Remember to pack the binoculars!

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13. Cliff Palace - Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

This grand engineering achievement in Mesa Verde, the largest cliff dwelling in North America, has 217 rooms and 23 kivas, and once provided shelter for 250 to 300 Ancestral Puebloans. To access Cliff Palace, visitors must climb down a stone stairway and four 10ft ladders, as part of an hour-long ranger-led tour.

It’s a great place to puzzle out the clues left by its former inhabitants – who vacated the site in AD 1300 for reasons still not fully understood.

Natural highs: Colorado’s stunning national parks

14. Kayaking - Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Blue-water paddling – kayaking in Alaskan coastal areas, which are characterized by extreme tidal fluctuations, cold water and the possibility of high winds and waves – is the means of escape into areas such as Muir Inlet in Glacier Bay.

Everywhere you turn, a tide-water glacier seems to be calving in this grand park, where you may also see humpback whales, black bears, seals and bald eagles.

The best wildlife experiences in the USA

15. Wildflower Season - Mt Rainier National Park, Washington

Mt Rainier is covered in glaciers, and the high meadows are blanketed in snow for nearly nine months of the year. Once the snow finally melts and the meadows are exposed, wildflowers explode into bloom. Avalanche lilies, beargrass, bog orchids, wood nymphs and dozens of other flowers turn the slopes of the Cascade’s highest mountain into a rainbow of color.

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So you’re taking the leap. The big trip is booked. There’s nothing standing between you and the unforgettable adventure that’s about to unfold…except, you still have to pack.

Wondering where to start? Avoid backache, ripped zips and other packing nightmares with our essential backpacking packing list.

How to pick the right backpack

Before you decide what to take, you need to determine what to take it in. Choosing a backpack can be confusing, and the web is rife with advice from people who insist you can travel for six months with nothing but a postage-stamp-sized carry-on, while others woefully recall their experience of lugging a 90-liter bag around the world. Newbie travelers are often tempted to take everything but the kitchen sink, but limiting your backpack space is the best way to avoid this common pitfall.

The sweet spot lies somewhere in the middle: a backpack between 40-70L is fine for a long-term trip – the trick is not to stuff it full.

Try the Kelty Redwing 50 for men or women. It has an internal frame, fits carry-on requirements for most major and regional airlines, is extremely durable and performs well whether you're out on the trails or jumping from hostel to hostel.

Remember to also take a good-quality day bag that can be kept inside your backpack or used as hand luggage. We like the Osprey ultralight stuff pack. It only weighs three ounces and feels full-featured despite its packable design.

How to pack for a big trip - tips from experienced travelers

Packing cubes and compression sacks

Stuffing socks in shoes will only get you so far. Believe me – compression sacks are your new best friends. Besides saving considerable space, they can protect clothing from grime and spillages, as well as separate dirty laundry from the holy grail of backpacker apparel: clean underwear. Use packing cubes to store individual outfits if you’re going somewhere where it will be difficult to sift through the contents of your backpack – this can be particularly useful when camping or staying in cramped conditions such as a sailboat or camper van.

For the ultimate in packing cubes try Shake Pak. These cubes are built to last through weeks on the road.

Keep toiletries in a good quality transparent waterproof bag to contain shampoo explosions and allow for easy access. Like these TSA-approved toiletry bags.

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Always pack versatile clothing

We know this sounds like jargon, but truly the best way to look half decent on the road is to pack a “capsule wardrobe”. Sticking to a neutral color scheme and packing plenty of layers means you can mix and match outfits easily, conjuring seemingly countless looks for a variety of climates out of a few tops and some cleverly chosen accessories.

A large statement scarf or sarong is a great multipurpose item: it keeps you cozy, doubles as a cushion for long bus journeys and can cover your shoulders when visiting sacred temples. The Mer Sea travel wrap comes with its own bag and is so versatile it can be cozy or fancy whenever you need it to be.

Travel gear reviews: clothing to take on the elements

Health essentials, COVID-19 and creature comforts

You know you need a first-aid kit. But be strategic: unless you’re going somewhere so remote that you’ll have no access to key medicines or supplies, you probably don’t need 12 packs of painkillers and a liter of liquid skin glue. A pack of high-quality face masks, bandaids and blister patches, (a reasonable amount of) painkillers, antiseptic cream, antihistamine, travel sickness tablets and prescription medications/contraceptives should suffice, along with your soon-to-be-treasured anti-diarrhea pills and laxatives. For the sake of your mental health, pack earplugs, an eye mask and if you know you struggle to nod off, a calming lavender essential oil roll-on.

Even though you're likely going to be outside a lot, you still will need to know the local advisories and regulations regarding COVID-19 safety. What vaccines will you need? Do you need test results and if so, what kind of tests qualify and in what time window? Will you have to quarantine upon arrival? With regulations changing daily, start at Lonely Planet's Health Hub for up-to-the-minute pandemic travel advisories.

These earplugs are reusable and moldable so they work great in lots of different ears.

This silk eye mask from Slip helps fight fine lines and wrinkles all while ensuring proper sleep on long-haul flights.

And for non-GMO-verified essential oil, try NOW organic Lavender calming blend and rest easy.

8 tips to stay healthy on vacation from celebrity trainer Harley Pasternak

Tech and entertainment

Digital nomad or not, chances are you’ll be taking some tech. Even if you’re flying by the seat of your smartphone, you’ll need a charger, a global adaptor and a portable battery (a life-saver if you’re dependent on mapping apps). Throw in a laptop, camera, GoPro, drone and Kindle and your inventory suddenly got a whole lot more valuable and heavier. Keep tech in hand luggage wherever possible and, to echo the station announcements you’ll soon be hearing everywhere, never leave your bag unattended.

Do some digital packing too: download crucial apps before you leave home to avoid flaky wifi or expensive roaming charges. If you’re a paperback fan (or love a good guidebook) don’t take more than one or two – you can switch them at book swaps as you go.

Lonely Planet's ultimate digital nomad packing list

Eco-friendly kit

It’s 2022. The “take only pictures, leave only footprints” backpacker mantra is no longer enough. Pack a reusable water bottle (with an in-built filter if necessary) like the LifeStraw Go. Look for packaging-free or refillable toiletries. Bring lightweight bamboo straws and cutlery like this travel cutlery set that comes in a neat roll with a brush for cleaning. Finally, don't forget environmentally-friendly sunscreen like Thinksport SPF 50+ which is safe for coral reefs and top-rated by the EWG.

As refreshing as they are, even biodegradable wet wipes can clog sewage systems, particularly in less developed countries; take a flannel or muslin cloth for thorough face washing. Zero-waste sanitary products (reusable towels, menstrual cups or period-friendly underwear) will minimize costs and use less backpack space too.

Into the green: eight destinations for an eco-friendly escape

Padlocks and backup documents

A mini padlock on your backpack zippers will help deter anyone from pinching whatever you last stuffed into the top of your bag, while larger ones are handy for hostel lockers (they usually sell them at an inflated price if you’re stuck). It’s worth taking hard photocopies of your passport, driving license and insurance documents, or at least a USB stick with the digital versions, in case any get lost or stolen.

Still not sure what to pack? Read our ultimate guide to packing like a pro before you go as well!

What not to pack

Sleeping bag : most hostels ban them anyway due to their bedbug spreading properties, providing clean sheets instead. If you’re fussy about bedding, bring a silk sleeping bag liner – but this is totally optional
Hairdryer and high heels: embrace the laid back look – you can always pop to a salon or buy a cheap pair of snazzy shoes if you have an impromptu glamorous night out
Neck pillow: unless it’s inflatable (others add too much bulk). And even then, is it really worth it?
Anything of true sentimental value: because insurance can’t replace the irreplaceable
A standard towel: or so say... most travelers. Four months of carting around a smelly, useless microfiber towel taught me to always take one just in case – which takes us to this article’s caveat: everyone’s different. If you really want to take something, just take it. You’ll soon find out if it was the right decision!

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Most of the time, travel is about adventure, excitement and new experiences. But sometimes all you really want is a bit of peace and quiet.

You might've heard about dark sky parks : remote locations with little if any light pollution, ideal destinations for stargazers. But what about the auditory equivalent? The answer isn’t so simple. Finding a place free of man-made noise is a challenge, even in places that seem like the middle of nowhere.

The adverse effects of noise pollution on wildlife

A 2017 study by researchers at Colorado State University shows noise pollution – caused by things like nearby roads, air traffic, logging, mining and urban settlements – is pervasive across the United States, including in designated wilderness and protected areas. And if this is bad for us, it’s even worse for wildlife, who rely on the sounds of their environment for survival.

But there may be hope. A movement started by Gordon Hempton, author of the book “One Square Inch of Silence,” and his organization Quiet Parks International (QPI), seeks to preserve those few places left where it’s possible to experience relatively pure silence – just the sounds of nature. The hope is that travelers will seek them out, just as they seek out dark sky parks, to take a short break from the constant human presence.

These are the best places in the world to go to find your own solace.

The serenity of a Wilderness Quiet Park: only the sounds of nature

Most quiet parks are well off the beaten path – and even so, many are still threatened by intrusive noise pollution. For instance, the remote, mysterious, moss-laden Hoh Rain Forest on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula, where Hempton initially set up his “One Square Inch” experiment, remained relatively free of noise pollution for years – until US Navy training flights recently started rumbling over a corner of the park. That change, and his inability to stop it, is what led Hempton to launch Quiet Parks International, hoping a global effort would have a greater impact.

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How many Wilderness Quiet Parks are there?

The first (and so far only) official “wilderness quiet park” certified by QPI is along the Zabalo River in Ecuador. The area demonstrates “a healthy balance of bioacoustic activity with … noise-free intervals lasting several hours,” according to the organization’s website. (Even that description tells you how hard it is to find a place completely undisturbed by the sounds of human activity). QPI hopes quiet-park status will eventually be enough of a tourism draw to benefit the local Indigenous Cofán tribe, which owns the land.

Future, potential Wilderness Quiet Parks

QPI has also identified several other potential wilderness quiet parks around the world. Most of them are in designated natural areas with minimal artificial light sources (there’s a lot of overlap with dark sky parks). They tend to be located far from established flight patterns and other major sources of traffic noise, in places where land use is unlikely to create frequent noise (eliminating most agricultural and mining areas, for example).

In the United States, these potential new quiet parks include Idaho’s otherworldly Craters of the Moon, Utah’s Canyonlands National Park and Hovenweep National Monument and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

In Europe, potential quiet parks are found in places from Snowdonia National Park and the Brecon Beacons in Wales to Pirin National Park in Bulgaria and everywhere in between.

There are dozens of other potential sites around the world, including the Skeleton Coast of Namibia, Garajonay National Park in the Canary Islands, Manu National Park in Peru and the aptly named Silent Valley National Park in Kerala, India. All of these could potentially become designated quiet parks if QPI’s site visits show that they meet the right criteria. The project is still in its early stages, so part of the certification process will be to establish just how quiet is quiet enough.

Urban Quiet Parks: an oasis in the middle of a city

Your best chance of escaping man-made noise is to head out into the wilderness. But if all goes as planned, you won’t have to go that far to get a taste of natural silence. QPI has been working to establish and certify urban quiet parks, places near or within major cities that have been set aside as quiet, noise pollution-free spaces.

As of 2022, there are 4 urban quiet parks in the world: Yangmingshan National Park, Taiwan; Hampstead Heath, London, United Kingdom; Parque del Montnegre y el Corredor, Barcelona, Spain and Dender-Mark Quiet Area, Flanders, Belgium.

A pilot program in Stockholm, Sweden, has identified 65 “calm places” within the city and its surroundings, as well as 11 walking paths signposted with the “quiet trails” icon; the routes are described in brochures visitors can find in tourist offices or online. All the walks are easily reachable by metro, bus, bicycle or on foot from the city center. Similar experiments are taking place in Taiwan, New York City and Portland, Oregon.

There are also efforts to create quiet communities, quiet marine trails and hiking trails and even quiet hotels. All of which indicates that gradually, just maybe, we’re beginning to recognize the value of a little peace and quiet in a busy world.

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The Quiet Parks movement - where to experience pure silence on your travels

Leave the front country behind in favor of more remote, wild spans away from serious crowds.

But that ambition doesn't mean every night has to wind down on a foam camping pad inside a drippy tent. A hike-in lodge offers all the adventure of a wilderness trek with the comfort of a clean bed, hot showers and a home-cooked meal at the end of a rewarding day.

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The nine hike-in lodges below offer remarkable access to some of the most remote parts of the US without the need to sacrifice the comforts of home. Because let’s be honest, nothing feels more hedonistic than pampering yourself in the wilderness!

Phantom Ranch, Arizona

Best for hiking the Grand Canyon

There’s only one lodge at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, and it’s so popular you’ll need to book more than a year in advance. The Phantom Ranch has been welcoming guests into the depths of the wild west’s most iconic landmark for a century, offering them respite from the elements in rustic cabins made of wood and native stone. Of course, the journey is as wild as the destination: you descend 7.5 miles on the exposed South Kaibab Trail and make the arduous return via the more shaded 10-mile Bright Angel Trail.

Explore Arizona's natural beauty beyond the Grand Canyon on this epic road trip

Muir Trail Ranch, California

Best for a mountain escape

There’s no road within 11 miles, no phone and no showers – though the Japanese-style hot springs will certainly soothe aching muscles. The Muir Trail Ranch is a true off-grid escape in the high mountains of central California with riverside tent cottages and log cabins that are most often used by those tackling the John Muir or Pacific Crest trails. Swap trekking sagas in the fireplace lounge, which keeps guests warm and relaxed with books, board games and comfy furniture. Remember to bring a sleeping bag, but don’t worry about the meals (they’re included!).

A practical guide to trekking California's John Muir Trail

Lake of the Clouds Hut, New Hampshire

Best for summiting the highest peak in the northeast

Lake of the Clouds is the largest and highest of eight huts operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The spectacular setting – it’s in a col between Mount Monroe (5372ft) and Mount Washington (6288ft) – makes it an ideal staging ground for summit bids of the highest peak in the northeast. Access to the 100-year-old property is via the Crawford Path (7 miles). Sleep in one of the 90 bunks and expect a small “croo” to not only cook, but entertain and educate.

The 12 best-secluded cabins to rent in the Northeast US

Hike Inn, Georgia

Best as a hub for the Appalachian Trail

It’s a five-mile trek across babbling streams and up the scenic ridges of Georgia’s Amicalola Falls State Park to reach the LEED-certified Hike Inn, which is one of the cushier spots on this list with solar-heated showers, plush linens and nourishing meals. The 20-room lodge sits at an altitude of 3100 feet, with views from the wrap-around porch over gently rolling hills. Thru-hikers tackling the Appalachian Trail often use Hike Inn as a comfortable launchpad or rewarding end to their grueling 2200-mile journey.

Top 7 state parks in Georgia for hikers, swimmers and nature lovers

Paradise Lodge, Oregon

Best for the gourmand hiker

The name doesn’t lie: Paradise Lodge sits on an idyllic stretch of the lush Lower Rogue River Canyon with 18 woodsy rooms spread across six unique cabins. Access is either by foot (the shortest trail is a family-friendly 3.5 miles) or by rafting, kayaking or jetboating downriver. Fine dining, local wines, craft beer and freshly roasted coffee are the hard-earned rewards for your adventurous arrival.

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Charit Creek Lodge, Tennessee

Best for the rustic, no-electricity escapist

Charit Creek Lodge is only 1 mile from the nearest parking lot, but that just gives you more time to explore the 150 miles of surrounding trails through the scenic gorges and sandstone bluffs of Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area. And while the lodge may be completely off the grid, the comfortable linens, oil-burning lanterns, wood-burning stoves and porch-top rocking chairs make the private cabins here feel unexpectedly swish. Plus, the meals are rave-worthy, and the restrooms even have hot showers and flush toilets!

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Granite Park Chalet, Montana

Best for the views of Glacier National Park

The Great Northern Railway built this panoramic chalet – now a National Historic Landmark – in 1914 at an elevation of 6693ft above sea level. The sweeping views over Glacier National Park are astounding, but to enjoy them, you’ll need to trek at least four uphill miles and bring your own linens, water and food, which you can cook in a basic kitchen. Prefer something less rustic? Try the nearby Sperry Chalet, one of America’s most beloved hike-in lodges. Though it was partially destroyed in a 2017 wildfire, it reopened anew in 2020.

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Bearpaw Camp, California

Best for incredible panoramas of Sequoia National Park

There’s no better way to experience the High Sierra backcountry of Sequoia National Park than to book a stay at Bearpaw Camp. The 11.5-mile hike in entails several creek crossings but is well worth it for the million-dollar views over the snow-frosted mountains of the Great Western Divide. Once you arrive, you can expect a generous dinner, hot showers and a sheltered stay in one of the six tent cabins located on a rocky saddle. The camp is only open June to mid-September, and you’ll need a wilderness permit before setting off.

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LeConte Lodge, Tennessee

Best for relaxation in the Smoky Mountains

You’ll find the highest altitude guest lodge in the eastern United States on an open glade at 6400ft, just below the summit of its namesake peak within Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Access is via one of five routes, the most popular being the 6.5-mile Trillium Gap Trail, which is also used by the pack llamas carting supplies. Hearty homecooked meals, kerosene lanterns, propane heaters and washbasins for old-school sponge baths add comfort to stays in one of the seven rough-hewn cabins or three multi-room lodges.

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When adventurer Benton MacKaye conceived of the Appalachian Trail in 1921, he probably had no idea how thru-hiking, long-distance hiking and backpacking would one day take the outdoor industry by storm.

Today, thousands grab a backpack, stuff it with a stove, camping gear and food and take to the hills, canyons, valleys and plains for months at a time. Whether you’re seeking your first or tenth thru-hike, here are our picks for the best long hikes in the US for 2022.

Pacific Northwest Trail for a mountains-to-sea challenge

Trailheads: Glacier National Park, Montana and Cape Alava, Washington
Distance: 1200 miles
Duration: 60-75 days

This stunner has something few long-distance trails in the US have: a mountains-to-sea approach, encompassing the diversity of ocean and alpine terrain. Spanning 1200 miles through Montana, Idaho and Washington, crossing the Continental Divide and Cascade Range, there are curveballs galore on this rugged mountain-goat-infused trail.

Though it is shorter than a lot of the trails on this list, it’s no less demanding. With every mix of weather and climate along the way (not to mention grizzly bears) only avid and knowledgeable hikers should consider this hike.

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Pacific Crest Trail for the most variable terrain on the planet

Trailheads: Campo, California and Manning Park, British Columbia
Distance: 2650 miles
Duration: About 5 months

This Hollywood-beautiful hiking trail also has a rough side. Spanning the three westernmost states in the lower 48, the 2650-mile Pacific Crest Trail covers the most variable terrain the planet has to offer – from the Mojave Desert in California, piggybacking on John Muir’s travels through the Sierras, then powering through the volcanos of Oregon and the Cascade Mountains of Washington.

As possibly the most popular long trail in the country, safety measures and information have become readily accessible and even the novice hiker can now attempt the PCT. Other backpacking experience is always a good idea, though.

How to hike the Pacific Crest Trail in 2022: a comprehensive guide to everything you need to know

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Continental Divide Trail for the volcanos, lakes and glaciers

Trailheads: The Continental Divide in Glacier National Park and The Pacific Ocean near Cape Alava, Washington
Distance: 3100 miles
Duration: 4 to 5 months

The Continental Divide is the literal spine of the country – marking the line where water will eventually run to either the Atlantic or Pacific Ocean. Running 3100 miles from Mexico to Canada through New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho and Montana, the Continental Divide offers volcano hopping, altitude sickness and heat exhaustion, coupled with grizzly bears and rattlesnakes. In short, it’s a great adventure.

Only the experienced hiker should attempt the CDT. With many sections of off-trail navigating, elevations over 14,000 feet and variability in both terrain and weather, even the experienced will have to stay on their toes.

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Appalachian Trail for the most accessible thru-hiking trek

Trailheads: Springer Mountain, Georgia and Mount Katahdin, Maine
Distance: 2180 miles
Duration: 5 to 7 months

The ‘granddaddy’ of this list (collectively known as the ‘Triple Crown of Hiking’), and definitely the most user-friendly, the Appalachian is a great place to start a thru-hiking career, as it’s so convenient to civilization. Its long pedigree means there are pages and pages of history and literature for every step of the 2180-mile trek, which spans from the northern part of Georgia to the middle of Maine.

The perfect trail for the beginner long-distance hiker. There are backcountry cabins, service roads where the trail-weary can make an easy escape and close proximity to towns and airports for any emergencies.

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Florida Trail for the gators, mountain lions and bears

Trailheads: Big Cypress National Preserve and Fort Pickens at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Pensacola Beach
Distance: 1500 miles
Duration: 2 to 3 months

The Florida Trail never leaves the state but has no need to. Instead it spans 1500 miles across the peninsula and panhandle from Big Cypress National Preserve to deciduous forest. Along the way, hikers share the habitat with gators, mountain lions and black bears. It’s an exciting trail, if nothing else.

The Florida Trail is a great trail for all experience levels, as it is a relatively flat and low-elevation hike. But it is humid in Florida, so be prepared for bugs, sweat and some serious Vaseline use for rash on this pressure cooker of a hike.

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Arizona Trail for the canyons, deserts and Grand Canyon

Trailheads: Coronado National Memorial and the Arizona–Utah border
Distance: 800 miles
Duration: 6 to 7 weeks

Think Arizona is nothing but heat and flat sand? Think again. This 800-mile trail explores deserts, mountains, canyons, and cultures from Mexico to Utah. Endlessly snaking from the state’s southern border to the northern border are grueling mountain switchbacks and the winding Grand Canyon National Park, one of the Holy Grails of hiking experiences.

A great trail for all experience levels. Be prepared to carry water for long, dry sections of trail. Do your homework on when to hike to avoid unnecessary struggles with everything from extreme heat to crowds in the Grand Canyon.

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American Discovery Trail for the ultimate coast-to-coast adventure

Trailheads: Cape Henlopen, Delaware and Limantour Beach, California
Distance: 6800 miles
Duration: About a year and a half

The only trail in the country that goes coast-to-coast, only the most driven dare to attempt this 6800-mile behemoth. But for those who do, this trail has it all: city, nature, mountains, deserts, oceans and plains. Crossing the Appalachian, Continental Divide and Pacific Crest Trails en route from Delaware to California, the wonders and discoveries are endless on this endless trail.

Only the dedicated. This trail will take everything out of you, test every bone and muscle and try your patience to make you earn your coast-to-coast accomplishment.

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North Country Trail for the grasslands and the great lakes

Trailheads: Lake Sakakawea State Park, North Dakota and Killington, Vermont
Distance: 4600 miles
Duration: 7 to 9 months

From the Grasslands to the lakes to the hills, the North Country Trail meanders from western North Dakota, 4600 miles to Vermont. Hikers traverse a tirelessly straight trail in the grasslands before transitioning to the winding shoreline of Lake Superior. Whether you’re looking to hike every cardinal direction, see 4 great lakes or 8 states, this trail ticks all the items on the list for a classic American thru-hike.

Not for the beginner hiker. The length alone can break the strongest minds, including the most experienced. Though the terrain isn’t necessarily the most grueling (although sometimes challenging) the stamina needed makes this an advanced hiker’s trail.

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Hayduke Trail for the most nimble rock scramblers

Trailheads: Arches National Park, Utah and the bottom of Zion Canyon in Zion National Park, Utah
Distance: 812 miles
Duration: 40 to 50 days

Named after a fictional character in ‘ The Monkey Wrench Gang ’ an infamous novel by Edward Abbey, the Hayduke Trail is a gem. No other trail both starts and finishes in a National Park. The 812-mile trail begins and ends in Utah, dipping into Arizona to join the Arizona Trail through Grand Canyon National Park. Choose this one for the solitude and serenity of the American Southwest.

With elevations from 1800 feet to well over 11,000, the Hayduke is not for the faint of heart or the novice hiker. Off-trail navigation, altitude, heat exhaustion and water rationing require patience and experience.

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Ice Age Trail for a trip that traces millions of years of rock formations

Trailheads: Potawatomi State Park, Wisconsin and Interstate State Park near St. Croix Falls, Wisconsin
Distance: 1200 miles
Duration: 8 to 12 weeks

Don’t let the name scare you away. This 1200-mile historic trail in Wisconsin was carved by nature’s glacial forces. Every step takes you back millions of years, when ice up to two miles thick sculpted the landscape. From the shores of Lake Michigan to one of the tributaries of the mighty Mississippi River, the trail winds, turns and curves its way through forest, grasslands and rocky outcroppings.

This is a great trek for avid hikers, but not necessarily advanced ones. Geology buffs will especially appreciate a look at the formation of the land. Just pack plenty of water and all necessary creams and ointments. Bugs, chafing and rashes can ruin a hike.

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Australia is nothing short of legendary on the global surf scene with the Pacific roaring in on one side and the bath-warm Indian Ocean caressing the other.

This land Down Under sports right-hand point breaks, mellow logger waves and pounding slab barrels that can smash boards in two with a whole load of beach in between. It's also given the world some of the top pros: Gilmore, Fitzgibbons, Fanning to name a few.

Lashing down the fiberglass for a surf road trip here is still the stuff of bucket lists, no matter if you're cruising the blustery capes of South Australia, the rainforest-fringed shores of Queensland, or the talcum beaches of Western Australia. All of those and more feature on this curated list of the best places to surf in Australia.

Margaret River, Western Australia

Best for A-list Indian Ocean breaks

J-Bay, Waimea, Trestles – Margaret River is up there with surf's A-list destinations. A 70-mile run of craggy coast that spills down from lush bushlands and breezy winelands.  Western Australia has break after break with the potential to dole out the ride of your life.

The star of the show is surely the Mainbreak. It's a swell-sucking A-frame reef with rights and lefts that invite playful turns and curvy cutbacks. No surprise then that it's the home of the annual World Surf League Margaret River Pro event in spring. Right next to that is The Box, a bullet-chamber of a wave that's fast and quick on a really shallow rock shelf.

If you don't keep the company of Kelly Slater et al, then don't despair. One of the great joys of Margaret River is cruising the coast road in search of spots that suit. There are beginner waves at Cowaramup Bay and all manner of intermediate wedges for the academics at Smiths Beach. The downside? Sharks.

Getting to Margaret River : Margaret River is a three-hour drive south from Perth down the Forrest Highway.

Burleigh Heads, Queensland

Best surf spot on the Gold Coast

As the south channel swells roll up and hit the rocks of Burleigh Heads, they get bent into the sandy deposits that filter out of Tallebudgera Creek. The result is a set of about four different wave sections that can – when the surf gods are drunk on ambrosia – connect up to offer 300-meter rides from point to beachfront. That's rarer than a rainbow eucalyptus, though.

Usually, the crowd is spread up and down the line with most waiting on The Point, the premier part of Burleigh Heads. That's a reeling right that gives barrels on almost every ride.

Crowds at Burleigh are typically local crews with a speckling of travelers on an East Coast Australia mission. Beginners won't want to play here, but there are more welcoming beach breaks to the north and south: head to Palm Beach and Surfers Paradise.

Getting to Burleigh Heads: Drive south from Gold Coast on Sunshine Boulevard for 15 minutes.

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Bells Beach, Victoria

Best for consistent lines

The lines roll into Bells Beach so darn orderly that they'd give a British post office a run for its money. This right-hander is fueled by almost constant winter storm systems in the lower latitudes of the Southern Ocean. When they meet the Victorian coastline just south of Torquay, they shape up into peeling rights with a trio of different take off points.

The Bells Bowl is the elusive bomb that's considered the best of them. It can soak up 20-foot swells and is the spot where Simon Anderson proved the thruster fin setup to the world back in the early '80s, changing the face of performance riding forever.

It's easy to stand in awe of the location at Bells. But there's no time to gawp. You've also got Winkipop, a rifle-like advanced right on the northeast end of the beach, plus flagship stores from the towering Aussie brands that were born here, like Rip Curl and Quiksilver.

Getting to Bells Beach: Drive the Great Ocean Road just out of Torquay. Bells is one of the first beaches you'll come to.

Lennox Head, New South Wales

Best for right-hand point breaks

On its day, the Lennox Head point break is a right-hander to rival any on the globe. It's been a magnet for proper rippers and pros since the 60s, mainly because it can tame the biggest southeast swells that creep up from the Southern Ocean. Those wrap into the rocks and form into beefy shoulders that section out from hollow to open-face, a perfect playground for unleashing cutbacks and bottom turns over a ride that can last 200 meters or more.

Lennox Head can mellow out enough to appeal to intermediates on occasion. If that's you, consider sitting a little further down the line where the takeoff is less challenging and the ride shouldn't burn the hamstrings as much. Be warned: The entry point to Lennox is famously solid, with uber-slippery rocks that have dented plenty of fiberglass in their time.

Getting to Lennox Head: There are direct flights to the nearby Ballina Byron Gateway Airport from Melbourne and Sydney. Brisbane is just over two hours' drive up the M1.

Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Best spot for remote bays and beaches that require a 4X4

Kangaroo Island is famed for its honey-making bees, its sweet white wines, and its epic surf. You'll need an off roader to navigate all the spots, which range from the multi-level beach peaks of Vivonne Bay (where it's not uncommon to surf with dolphins) to the harder reefs of Hanson Bay (watch out for the rips).

You'll notice that the crowds thin out a load on this off-radar isle fragmented from the side of South Australia. It can get a little busy in the autumn months when the conditions conspire to give regular south swell pulses and reliable northerly offshores. Mostly, though, this is for surfers who're keen to get away from it all.

Getting to Kangaroo Island: Hop on the ferry at Cape Jervis south of Adelaide.

Byron Bay, New South Wales

Best for "Endless Summer" vibes and cruisy waves

Like so many of the world's surf meccas – Tamarindo, Tahiti – before it, Byron Bay was canonized by the coming and goings of Bruce Brown of Endless Summer fame. His reels showed the planet somewhere where teal-green waters peeled off pretty rocks into sandy bays lined by gnarled eucalyptus trees.

Wave wise, you've got a few to pick from. Tallows hoovers up a lot of swell and works when elsewhere is flat. Broken Head is a Queensland-style point with a right-hand shoulder for experienced surfers. And then there's The Pass, a cruisy all-person wave that's the highlight of Byron; always busy, always fun.

Thousands now come to get their slice. And it's not just surfers. This town has flower-strewn hippies pining for the return of the Summer of Love, influencers clad in the newest eco-friendly beach wear, businessfolk whizzing in Porsches – you name it. It's so popular that some say Byron's glory days are done, but the almost unceasing winter swells (April to September) still do plenty of talking.

Getting to Byron Bay: There are flights to the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport from Sydney and Melbourne. It takes 30 minutes to arrive in town from the terminals by car.

Noosa, Queensland

Best for point breaks beneath eucalyptus forests

Noosa is pretty fickle considering the god-like reputation it seems to have globally. You need either really powerful southern swells to curl around the headlands or cyclone storm systems sitting off New Zealand to get things pumping. When that happens, though…

A quintet of tactically positioned headlands – known collectively as the Noosa Heads – generate a string of nigh-on perfect right-hand points. A few of them connect for the best sessions, but it's Tea Tree Bay at low tide that really turns on the goods, with sometimes-hollow walls of playful water that are all about cruisy rides.

What Noosa can always offer is a laid-back Sunshine Coast feel and an escape to nature. This is a land where the kauri pines and eucalyptus trees creep ever near to the Pacific. In fact, you'll basically be surfing within the confines of the Noosa National Park!

Getting to Noosa: Fly into the Sunshine Coast Airport. From there, public buses go straight up to Noosa in a little over 30 minutes.

Bondi Beach, New South Wales

Best place to learn to surf

Ask any WSL pro about surfing Bondi and they'd scoff at you over their protein smoothie. The waves here are sloppy sandbanks that close out on pretty much anything over head height. They're always busy, too. Like, flying-foam-board busy with surf schoolers and city slickers trying to score their first drop-ins.

But you don't come to Bondi for the quality. You come for the vibe. Fresh-faced backpackers, tattooed bikers, buff iron pumpers, New Age meditators, family picnickers – they're all here, meeting and mingling where the salt spray spirals off the Pacific and into suburban Sydney. It's hardly a wonder that the place has become legendary in the annals of Aussie surf culture, even despite its waves.

With whitewash to their back, there are tons of surf school options in this beginner hotspot. Lets Go Surfing has one of the best set-ups. They've got a 25-year teaching pedigree and packages aimed at adult learners and families alike.

Getting to Bondi: Bondi Beach is a suburb of Sydney. To get there, ride the city Illawarra line all the way to Bondi Junction from Central. It takes about half an hour.

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As far as perfect afternoons go, I can think of little better than easing myself into the clear peaty water of the River Wharfe, with the majestic ruins of Yorkshire’s Bolton Abbey looming large overhead. For me wild swimming means freedom, a chance to slip into idyllic bodies of water and become part of nature, rather than simply standing and looking at it. And I’m not alone.

Google searches for wild swimming  continue to grow (a Google search for "what is wild swimming" tells it is the practice of swimming for pleasure in natural waters, typically rivers and lakes).  The UK’s Outdoor Swimming Society (founded in 2006) has over 100,000 members after a large increase in interest during the Covid-19 pandemic, when close-to-home adventures became all important.

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My love of taking a dip stems from regular swims in London’s Hampstead Ponds and an obsession with Waterlog , the late naturalist Roger Deakin’s classic book about the joys of wild swimming. My own book, Floating : A Life Regained , retraced Deakin’s seminal text, and took me across the UK in a search for invigorating swims and a chance to feel the cool, calming effect of the water for hours after I’d dried off and headed home.

Whether it’s your first time braving the waves or you’re a pond-dipping pro, here are some of my favourite outdoor swimming spots to take the plunge in the UK.

River Waveney at Geldeston Locks, Norfolk

Marking the border between the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, the Waveney flows lazily through water meadows towards this idyllic swimming hole close to The Geldeston Locks pub. A favourite spot of Waterlog author Roger Deakin, tresses of weed sweep on the current just beneath the surface and the surrounding thickets of tall poplar trees sway in the breeze.

Swimmers can drop in from a boat launching post or leave their kit on a handy bench and slide in where the bank slopes gently towards the river.

Make it happen: The Locks are an 18-mile drive from the city of Norwich.

Loch An Eilein, Scotland

Set within the beautiful Rothiemurchus Forest in the Cairngorms National Park, Loch An Eilein is a swimmer’s dream. A small island, with a ruined castle that's home to a parliament of rooks, is within easy swimming-distance of the footpath on its western shore.

Once in the water, the frog’s-eye views across to the mountains of the UK’s wildest region are spectacular – just make sure you have a hot drink to help you warm up afterwards.

Make it happen: The famous resort of Aviemore is a 5-mile drive away. Aviemore is a 30-mile drive southeast from Inverness.

Treyarnon Tidal Pool, Cornwall

Set within the rocks overlooking the sandy beach of Treyarnon Bay, this perfect pool is filled by the outgoing tide, leaving a natural swimming hole that’s ripe for summer fun. Deep enough for jumping on the cliff-side and long enough for swimming lengths, it offers sensational views across the wild Atlantic Ocean. Bring goggles and you might even catch a glimpse of a starfish. Don’t be tempted to get in when the tide is rising and the pool starts to disappear between the waves. It’s only safe to swim here at low tide.

Make it happen: Treyarnon Bay is a ten-mile drive north of the resort town of Newquay.

Bryher, Isles of Scilly, England

Sweeping white sandy beaches and azure water are not something you tend to associate with the UK. But these features are a mainstay on the Isles of Scilly. Located 25 miles off the coast of Land’s End, all of Scilly’s islands are stunning. But Bryher, just 2.5 miles-long and half-a-mile wide, has the best swimming.

The water is icy cool, so pull on a wetsuit and swim out to the kelp forests which sway just beneath the surface. A sunset dip here is unbeatable.

Make it happen: Bryher is a short boat ride from the main island of St Mary’s. The latter can be reached via ferry from Penzance or a light aircraft from various airfields across Cornwall.

Loch Tarbert, Jura, Scotland

Not to be confused with the loch of the same name on the Scottish mainland, Jura’s Loch Tarbert almost cuts this wonderfully-secluded Hebridean island in two. The best swimming is found in its sheltered eastern end, accessible by a wide footpath which snakes down from the island’s only road.

The water here is pleasingly wild, with deer stalking across the tussocky hills and the Paps, Jura’s famous trio of peaks, looming on the horizon on a clear day.

Make it happen: Take a ferry to the neighbouring island of Islay from the mainland port at Kennacraig (two hours west of Glasgow), before hopping on the "wee ferry" across to Jura. Be aware that ferry times vary throughout the year.

River Wharfe at Bolton Abbey, Yorkshire, England

Where the River Wharfe meanders close to the ruins of Bolton Abbey – destroyed by Henry VII during the dissolution of the monasteries – sits the perfect river beach.

The water here is peat-rich, clear and fresh thanks to the fact it flows straight off the nearby hills. On summer days it can get busy, but come when it’s cloudy and it will just be you, the water and the medieval abbey.

Make it happen: Bolton Abbey is a 7-mile drive from the village of Skipton, which is a 27-mile drive from Leeds.

Llyn Cwm Bychan, Wales

At the end of a winding road that follows the crashing, white water of Afon Artro, Llyn Cwm Bychan is a Welsh wild-swimming gem. Its remoteness means you’re unlikely to be sharing its refreshing depths.

The eastern end of the lake is shallow, with a soft bed, making it easy to wade out and get views from the heart of the lake without feeling in danger. It's best enjoyed on a wet afternoon, with the hills shrouded in mist adding a mystical feel to proceedings.

Make it happen: Head to the village of Harlech, which is an 84-mile drive southwest from Liverpool in the Snowdonia National Park. From there, it’s a 6-mile drive east along narrow roads.

Torrin Pools, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Close to Glenbrittle, Skye’s famous fairy pools are beautiful, but can become inundated with visitors during the summer. Further south, just off the narrow road from Broadford to Elgol on the eastern shore of Loch Slapin, these pools near the village of Torrin are a worthy, peaceful alternative.

The icy water flows straight off the hills and over slabs of glistening marble, meaning dips here are always refreshing and brief. The views across to the summit Bla Bheinn and the wild landscape make the long journey here well worth the effort.

Make it happen: Torrin is a 5.5 mile drive along a narrow road from the town of Broadford, on the east of Skye. Skye is 80 miles northeast of Fort William.

Easedale Tarn, Lake District, England

The Lake District is blessed with a lifetime’s worth of swimming holes. But away from its larger lakes and its hidden becks and streams, Easedale Tarn is the area’s ideal dip.

Enough of a hike from the village of Grasmere to make sliding into its cool waters feel rewarding, its shelving beaches and shallow centre make it a swimmer’s paradise. While walkers trail up into the fells, feel the cool water on your back and enjoy different angles on the scenery that you’ll never get on dry land.

Make it happen: Easedale Tarn is a 2.5 mile uphill walk from the village of Grasmere, which is a short drive from the towns of Ambleside and Keswick.

Port Meadow, Oxford, England

Within easy walking distance of the centre of Oxford, Port Meadow is a bucolic gem, the River Thames meandering in languid fashion through lush pasture. There are ample beaches for wading in, but the most famous spot is where the Thames meets Castle Mill stream at Medley Footbridge. Take a picnic and lounge in the shade beneath the trees, or float along with the current and watch the world go by. It can get busy in summer, but all the better for meeting like-minded wild swimmers.

Make it happen: Port Meadow is a 20-minute walk from Oxford train station. Trains from London to Oxford take an hour and run from Marylebone and Paddington in the centre of the city.

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Fans of whitewater rafting are spoiled for choice in the US, but some of the wildest – and most accessible – river rapids in the country surge through the green countryside of West Virginia, fed by the forested uplands of the Appalachian Mountains.

The New River and Gauley River are legendary in whitewater rafting circles for their boiling, churning Class IV and Class V rapids, with numerous places to put-in within easy striking distance of the state capital, Charleston. But if you’re a city mouse rather than a natural born river rat, it might be hard to understand your options.

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Do you pick the New River Gorge or the Gauley River? How many miles do you need to cover, and where are the best places to put-in? When is the best time to raft, and how do you choose a reputable rafting company? Here’s what you need to know to arrange a safe, fun-filled and thrilling rafting trip in West Virginia.

An introduction to whitewater basics

Before we get started, let’s talk about whitewater. Around the world, rapids are classified on a scale of I to VI, based both on how difficult they are to navigate, and how dangerous they are. Like any rating system, this is somewhat subjective, and the thrill and risk of any section of whitewater can also vary depending on water volume. This means that rapids are not always as consistently difficult (or as easy!) as their rating might suggest.

However, ratings do give a benchmark for what to expect. Class I means moving water and a few small ripples, while Class VI is full-on Niagara Falls (and beyond the scope of commercial rafting operations). If you go rafting with a commercial operator, Class V rapids are the wildest water you're likely to encounter, and there's plenty of it in West Virginia. The state also has plenty of Class IV rapids – still thrilling, but not quite as challenging as Class V water  – as well as miles of gentler rapids for families and nervous first-timers.

Higher-rated sections of river require expert navigation and advance scouting. If you fall out of your raft on a Class V – or ‘go swimming,’ as whitewater guides euphemistically term it – there’s a serious risk of injury, so you'll need protective gear (a life vest, helmet and wet suit are usually the minimum requirements).

When to raft the rivers of West Virginia

West Virginia has two main rivers that are spoken about in hushed tones by fans of whitewater rafting – the New River near Fayetteville and the wilder Gauley River near Summersville. Both are easily accessible from Charleston by road within a few hours, via the I-64, US 60 and US 19 highways. We'll say more about these wonderful rivers later.

The West Virginia rafting season typically runs from May to September, with some of the best whitewater in the fall, when water is released from state reservoirs. May sees smaller crowds because of the colder weather, but spring rain in the mountains can deliver some impressive waves. As things warm up, the crowds gather; come at the start of the season to avoid bottlenecks and competition for accommodation.

The best time to run any part of the Gauley is during ‘Gauley Season’ – the six-week period in September and October when water is released from Summersville Lake through the Summersville Dam, raising the waves on the Gauley to epic levels.

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The New River is best for novices and families

It might sound odd to suggest easing your way into rafting in West Virginia with a river that contains Class IV rapids, but the New River – which rises in the Blue Ridge Mountains and meets the Gauley River near the town of Gauley Bridge – has long stretches of relatively calm water. The river passes through the scenic New River Gorge National Park & Preserve, and many sections are perfect for peaceful floating and swimming. Rafting here is a great compromise option for people who want to experience the thrill of whitewater rafting but also fit in some relaxing moments.

The New River is one of the oldest rivers in the world, dating back at least 65 million years, and it winds through an ancient gorge whose bedrock is rich in coal seams. In the late 19th and early 20th century, more than 50 mining towns lined the river’s banks. Today, these lie in ruins, mostly buried by the greenery that has reclaimed the gorge, although a few buildings and bridge foundations can be spotted by keen-eyed rafters.

The Upper New is the quieter stretch of the river. Even those deterred by the full rafting experience can rent a ‘ducky’ (inflatable kayak) to navigate the modest and widely spaced rapids on this part of the New River. Some people also navigate the river on stand-up paddle boards, though kayaks are arguably better suited to whitewater conditions.

The Lower New is the most popular portion of the New River for rafting. It has bigger rapids (rising up to Class IV) and more thrills, but it still offers breaks from the thundering whitewater. On quieter sections, you can body-surf on gentle Class I rapids, or clamber onto raised rocks and make dizzying leaps into the clear, cold water.

Spring is the highest water-flow season for the New River, so trips at this time of year are rougher and more challenging; some of the Class IV rapids become Class IV+ – serious water that is best reserved for people with previous rafting experience.

For bigger thrills and spills, aim for the Lower Gauley

One step up from the New River on the difficulty scale is the Lower Gauley, the gentler section of the Gauley River, which rises in Monongahela National Forest and meets the New River at Gauley Bridge. This 15-mile stretch of river contains at least 25 named rapids, but they’re fairly well spaced and only three are wave-drenched Class Vs.

In case you think that means you can sit back and enjoy the view, let's just say that the ‘Heaven Help You’ and ‘Pure Screaming Hell’ rapids are aptly named. The latter, the final Class V on the Gauley, involves a long paddle through three big waves before dropping into the so-called ‘Hell Hole,’ a churning cauldron of water that just might swamp your boat.

Navigate this final rapid successfully and you’ll want to celebrate with a group ‘paddle high-five’ – one of the best things about whitewater rafting here is the sense of camaraderie with the friends (or strangers turned friends) who have paddled alongside you.

The Lower Gauley also features one of the most beautiful rock formations along the Gauley Canyon – the so-called Canyon Doors, two red sandstone cliffs demarcated by gulches filled with green vegetation. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to stop and take a photo; the Class III Canyon Doors rapid roars along in front of them, and you’ll have to paddle hard to avoid being marooned on a smooth shelf of rock.

Head to the Upper Gauley for a serious thrill ride

The Upper Gauley is one of the wildest rides you can take in a raft anywhere in the world. The rapids come fast and furious as the elevation of the river drops more than 300 feet over the space of 10 miles. Pair that with a pounding current and the water resembles bubble-filled blown glass, even in the sections where it isn't white.

Lost Paddle, a Class V rapid, has four distinct sub-rapids over its quarter-mile length. You’ll need to keep a firm hand on your paddle’s T-grip while you move through them – while ‘going swimming’ is the most serious rafting hazard, more rafting injuries are caused by T-grips gone rogue, bruising lips and even taking out teeth.

One of the most dramatic spots on the Upper Gauley is the Class V known as Pillow Rock, where the river narrows and drops nearly 30ft, intensifying the water speed and necessitating some split-second shifts of weight and fine adjustments from the person at the helm, as well as some seriously coordinated paddling from the crew.

If your guide tells you ‘forward four,’ you’d best paddle exactly four strokes, even if the fourth stroke has to be aimed directly into a wall of whitewater. This section of the Gauley Gorge can be accessed by hikers, so on weekends, you’ll find locals picnicking on the rocks and cheering (or heckling) the rafters and kayakers navigating the rapids.

How to arrange a rafting trip on the New River or Gauley River

While it’s possible to take an independent trip on both the New and the Gauley with your own raft or kayak, this requires some serious experience. Class IV and V rapids are extremely difficult to navigate even with an expert at the helm, and most rafters come on organized trips, especially on the Lower New and the Gauley. Note that tour operators will generally not take children under 12 on the Lower New, or children under 15 on the Gauley.

Choosing a rafting company

There are numerous rafting operators on the New River and Gauley River, many offering accommodations as well as rafting trips, and the industry is well regulated, with strict standards required of rafting companies. Choosing a company will boil down to a mixture of price, departure schedules and recommendations from other travelers.

Adventures on the Gorge leads guided trips on both the New and the Gauley throughout the season, including overnight trips and the ‘Double Gauley,’ which takes you down the Upper Gauley twice in one day (not a booking for the faint-hearted). Their expansive compound near Fayetteville has stunning views of the New River Gorge Bridge and a variety of accommodations, from simple bunk beds and campsites to luxury cabins with Jacuzzis.

Where to stay in West Virginia

If your rafting company doesn't have its own accommodations, there are hostels, hotels and B&Bs dotted around Fayetteville and Summersville. Another attractive option is the lodge at Hawks Nest State Park, just north of Fayetteville along the New River. Primitive camping is also possible at several sites along the New River and Gauley River.

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Hovering just off the coast of Southern California are a string of under-explored islands that offer a peaceful escape from the noise and hubbub of the mainland. If you fancy camping in serene scenery in front of epic sunsets, look no further than California's Channel Islands.

The eight Channel Islands earn every bit of their 'North America’s Galapagos' nickname – more than 150 endemic species of plants and animals are tucked onto these specks of land scattered across the bay between Santa Barbara and San Diego.

For nearly 13,000 years, these islands have stayed largely aloof from domestication, and even from tourism, with one notable exception. This is all rather surprising given that the isles lie within sight of one of the most densely populated parts of the US.

While the island of Santa Catalina is fairly well-known and developed, the other Channel Islands are still wonderfully unspoiled. And while a visit is not as easy as say, a trip to Disneyland, you can have a meaningful experience even on a short day trip from a Southern California harbor.

Here's how to experience each of the eight islands, starting with the five islands protected as the Channel Islands National Park.

Channel Islands National Park

While the Channel Islands archipelago stretches from Santa Barbara County all the way south to the fringes of San Diego, the five national park islands are more tightly grouped off the shore near Ventura. The National Park Service (NPS) keeps the human impact on these hilly islands to a bare minimum to preserve their raw and natural character.

The islands are mostly treeless with little cover from the near-constant winds, but the wildflowers in spring are superb, as is the hiking year-round. Rangers and volunteers run guided hikes timed to meet some, but not all, boat trips – the NPS operates visitor centers in Santa Barbara and Ventura where you can make inquiries.

Each of the islands has a small, primitive campground with pit toilets and not much else. Everything has to be packed in and out, including water (unless you are staying at the sites on Santa Cruz or Santa Rosa). Make camping reservations with the NPS in advance to secure a spot.

Island Packers runs boat services to the park from Ventura Harbor and nearby Oxnard, and you can take day trips most days to Anacapa and Santa Cruz islands. Boats run less often to Santa Rosa and San Miguel and there are currently no boats to Santa Barbara (though services may resume once the jetty is repaired). Other ways to reach the islands include private boat charters and multi-day cruises, some focusing on diving in the rich and pristine waters of the national park.

If you're camping, consider bringing along TC Boyle’s 2011 book When the Killing's Done – part murder-mystery, part environmental parable about an eccentric man’s efforts to prevent the NPS from clearing invasive pigs and rats from the Channel Islands. It was inspired by the ongoing and controversial efforts to remove non-native species introduced by past settlers, which now threaten the fragile environment and endemic species.

Note that from June to November, the Santa Barbara Channel is home to the largest population of blue whales in the world outside of Antarctica. Trips to the islands during these months often include time for whale-spotting. Other whale species spotted here include humpbacks, grey, fin, and minke whales, dolphins and orcas.

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Santa Cruz

Best for active day trips for hiking and kayaking

At 96 sq miles, Santa Cruz is the largest and most varied of the Channel Islands. With two rugged mountain ranges – including 2450ft Mt Diablo, the park's tallest peak – and a picturesque central valley, plus 77 miles of coastal cliffs and abundant native plant and animal life, it's a beacon for hikers and campers.

Wildlife spotters may encounter its two best-known inhabitants, the scrub jay and the island fox. While distinct subspecies of this charmingly fearless diminutive fox species are found on six of the Channel Islands, the monogamous scrub jay lives only on Santa Cruz.

The NPS website details the island’s 10,000-year history of human settlement, and there are upwards of 3000 archaeological sites. Look for collections of broken shells lying on the ground away from the ocean for evidence of ancient human activity.

Top Tip: Take a water-based excursion to view the painted cave, a sea cave with striking colors created by algae, lichen and different rock types.

Getting there: There are two landing spots on Santa Cruz: Scorpion and Prisoners Harbor. Scorpion is the main landing site and it takes a little over an hour to get here from Ventura. There are normally several boats daily.

Camping: Reserve the camping site at Scorpion Canyon well in advance via the NPS; this is a popular island and spaces fill up quickly in season. Potable water is available.

Anacapa

Best for easy day trips with stunning views

Fittingly named Anayapax, meaning 'illusion' or 'mirage' in the language of the Chumash, the island's original inhabitants, Anacapa is actually a three-islet sliver of land lying 11 miles from the mainland. Wildflowers abound and ground-nesting western gulls greet spring and summer visitors. Their eggs and chicks are safe because Anacapa is naturally predator-free.

Easy year-round hikes lead to a stolid 1932 lighthouse and mind-boggling westward and mainland views. Keep an eye out for sightings of the endemic Anacapa deer mouse and Channel Island slender salamander.

Top Tip: Look for abalone shells left by the Chumash people up to 5000 years ago.

Getting there: Boat trips taking one-hour leave most days from Oxnard on the mainland.

Camping: The campsites are a half-mile climb up 157 stairs from the boat landing site, and you'll need to bring water.

San Miguel

Best for observing seals and sea lions

Known for being wind-swept, foggy and cold, San Miguel is at its best on sunny summer days, when the island’s 30,000 pinnipeds – including northern elephant seals, California sea lions, northern fur seals and harbor seals – haul up on the shores. You can see tons (literally!) of them lounging around at Point Bennett, reached via a 16-mile ranger-led hike.

Along the way, you'll pass the ghostly Caliche Forest, composed of calcium carbonate casts of roots formed around 14,000 years ago. Keep an eye out for endemic flora such as giant coreopsis, poppies, dudleya, locoweed and buckwheat. Native species are making a comeback since the removal of non-native grazing animals such as voracious goats and other feral livestock.

Top Tip: San Miguel has the toughest weather of all the Channel Islands – 30mph winds are typical, so bring appropriate clothing.

Getting there: It takes around 3½ hours to reach San Miguel from Ventura and there are only two dedicated day trip services each year. Boats for campers run two to three times per week but only during certain months (see the Island Packers website for details). There is no pier, so expect to get wet getting to shore.

Camping: The San Miguel campsites are a steep 1¼-mile hike from the beach landing site, and you must bring your own water.

Santa Rosa Island

Best for beach fun and hiking to see spring wildflowers

Set out on one of the trails crossing 84-square-mile Santa Rosa Island and imagine how it must have felt to be the archaeologist who discovered 13,000-year-old human bones here — the oldest human remains ever found in North America. This part of America looked very different at the time; if you scour the eroding cliffs, you may find evidence of extinct pygmy mammoths.

For more recent history, you can visit bunkhouses, corrals and ranch houses located near the pier – a reminder of the days when livestock still grazed this former cattle ranch and the island was used as a big game hunting park.

Nature has bounced back impressively and you can search for Channel Island natives such as the cute (and potentially stinky) island spotted skunk, the non-venomous dwarf island gopher snake, and the island fence lizard. Take time to explore the grove of Santa Rosa Island Torrey Pines — the world’s rarest pine tree, and a relic from an ancient Pleistocene-era forest. These gnarled survivors grow to about 50 feet tall.

Top Tip: Don’t miss the hike along Water Canyon Beach, a spectacular and nearly deserted two-mile strip of white sand directly south of the landing pier.

Getting there: It's a 2- to 3-hour boat ride to the island from Ventura. The service for campers runs a couple of times per week, and there are infrequent day trips.

Camping: The campsite is a flat 1½-mile walk from the pier and there's potable water.

Santa Barbara Island

Best for spotting sea birds and solitude

One-square-mile Santa Barbara Island is the smallest Channel Island and the least visited island in the national park, seen by fewer than 750 people annually. This means visitors can enjoy its five miles of rolling trails in near solitude.

Circumnavigate this steep-sided isle for sightings of pinnipeds and the islands’ three endemic subspecies of land birds, or head up 634ft Signal Peak for stunning views of Sutil Island – and a chance of spotting a resting peregrine falcon.

The island is a critically important nesting ground for at least 11 species of seabirds, with one of the world’s largest congregations of Scripps’s murrelets. Sharp-eyed springtime visitors can spy young California brown pelicans, western gulls and multiple species of cormorants and storm petrels. Tropical brown boobies have started making regular appearances too, and have hatched at least one chick on Sutil.

Top Tip: This is an island for those who really want solitude – contemplate the splendid isolation at the north end of the island, where a lonely rock arch juts into the bay.

Getting there: Severe storm damage to the island’s wooden dock means that there is currently no scheduled service to the island, although you may be able to charter a boat and land on a rocky ledge. Check in with Island Packers to see when scheduled boat services are set to resume.

Camping: The campground is reached via a 200ft walking path from the landing point, and you may have to shoo away some lounging sea lions to get there. You’ve been warned!

Non-National Park Channel Islands​

There are more islands beyond the national park boundaries. Santa Catalina is a busy vacation spot, and nearby are San Nicolas and San Clemente, which you can only view from the water on boat trips.

Santa Catalina

Best for creature comforts and bison!

From 1911 onwards, Hollywood stars started flocking to Catalina Island for sportfishing and expensive nights out at the red-roofed art deco casino at Avalon, occasionally leaving behind movie extras, including a herd of live bison. Now stars in their own right, the bison still wander the hillsides, delighting visitors who chance across them.

Sporty types love Avalon for its outdoor activities, city-center beach, dining and lodging options, and sporting history. Baseball fans can visit the site of the original Wrigley Field, where the Chicago Cubs trained for 30 years from 1921 to 1951 (with a gap during WWII). It's now a public golf course.

On the narrow isthmus that almost divides the island in two, the village of Two Harbors offers the opportunity to get away from the Avalon bustle and camp in relative peace and quiet.

Top Tip: Rent a golf cart to get around, instead of a car; this isn't an island where you need to rush.

Getting there: Fast and slow ferries run daily from Long Beach, Dana Point and San Pedro. The glitterati opt for pricey helicopter transfers.

Where to stay: There are many options on Catalina, from upscale hotels to less expensive B&Bs. Camping is possible in Avalon and Two Harbors.

San Nicolas and San Clemente Islands

Best for diving

The public is barred from landing on these US naval base islands, but scuba diving, boating and swimming in approved waters are okay and many boat trips run out here from the mainland. Before becoming a launch platform for missile testing, San Nic was home to the 'Lone Woman of San Nicolas Island,' the last Native American to live on the islands and the inspiration for Karana, the heroine of Scott O’Dell’s Newbury-award-winning novel, Island of the Blue Dolphins.

San Clemente is the southernmost Channel Island, and it's an important elephant seal rookery. This is also the spot where human Navy SEALs train for missions, such as the raid against Osma Bin Laden’s compound in Pakistan, for which a replica was built on the island. It’s also a naval ship-to-shore firing range.

Getting there: The only way for civilians to visit is on scuba diving, fishing and boating trips arranged through commercial operators on the mainland.

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Portions of this article appear in Corinne Heyning Laverty's book, North America's Galapagos: The Historic Channel Islands Biological Survey. University of Utah Press, December 2019

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